What Does Chainsaw Pitch Mean? How to Read, Measure and Match It

Chainsaw pitch is the size of the chain: half the distance across three rivets, written as a fraction of an inch such as 3/8 or as .325. It decides which chain fits your saw, because the chain has to seat on the drive sprocket and on the tip of the bar, and a chain of another pitch will not. I read the pitch off the bar before I look at anything else on a chain, since bar length alone orders the wrong one. Below you will find where the number is printed, how to measure it with the saw made safe, the common sizes, and how pitch ties to gauge, bar, sprocket and file.

What Does Chainsaw Pitch Mean?

According to the University of Georgia Extension, pitch is the overall size of the chain, and it must match the pitch of the drive sprocket and the guide bar tip. Husqvarna describes the same thing as the spacing between the chain’s rivets, the drive sprocket teeth and the teeth of the sprocket in the bar tip. Three parts share one spacing, and a chain that disagrees with it will not seat.

A 1/4 inch pitch chain is the smallest common size, followed by .325 inch, .375 inch (3/8 in) and .404 inch. A .325 chain does not fit a 3/8 sprocket, even though the two numbers look close, so a replacement chain always starts from the saw’s pitch, never from a nearby size.

How to Measure Chainsaw Chain Pitch

Reading the number is faster and safer than measuring it, so start there. Measure only when the print is gone, and do it with the saw made safe, because the chain is the part of the saw that cuts you.

Read the Number First

Husqvarna says the pitch is often printed on the bar’s tail, on the chain’s drive link and in the operator’s manual, and may also sit on the rim of the spur sprocket or on the drive sprocket or clutch drum. On its X-CUT chains, the pitch is stamped on the drive link, and a stamp of 8 means 3/8 in. The University of Georgia adds that makers laser etch the pitch and gauge at the rear of the bar, and that once the paint wears off the etching can be very hard to read.

So I photograph the etching the first day and keep the picture with the manual. Gum and sawdust from apricot and plum wood cover a bar quickly, and a photo taken early saves a guess later.

Make the Saw Safe Before You Touch the Chain

Do this in order, every time, on every type of saw.

1. Release the trigger, engage the chain brake (on a battery or corded saw, if it has a brake lever), switch the engine or motor off, and wait until the chain has stopped.
2. On a gas saw, let the engine and muffler cool, then pull the spark plug cap off. On a battery saw, take the battery out. On a corded saw, pull the plug from the outlet by the plug, not by the cord.
3. Put on gloves before you touch the chain.
4. Release the chain brake only when your manual’s procedure requires it, and never force a locked chain or cover.

Measure Three Rivets and Halve It

The University of Georgia gives one method. Pick any three rivets in a row, measure from the center of the first to the center of the third in 1/16 inch steps, and halve the result. Husqvarna’s example is three rivets spanning half an inch, which gives a 1/4 inch pitch. The table shows what the sizes should span.

With the saw made safe, I wipe the gum and sawdust off the rivets first, because dirt hides the center of a rivet. A .325 chain spans about .650 inch, which lands between two marks on a tape in 1/16 inch steps.

Tape error can produce other in-between readings too, so a reading is never proof of the pitch. I use the tape as a cross-check only, and the printed number or the manual is my answer. Confirm it with the chain marking, the manual or a dealer before you order, and Husqvarna advises asking your nearest dealer if you are unsure.

Common Chainsaw Pitch Sizes and What They Suit

Larger pitch chains go on bigger saws, according to the University of Georgia. Each size below was made for a class of saw, so the pitch tells you which kind of saw the chain belongs on. To match engine size to your wood, my guide to what cc chainsaw you need works through the cutting jobs.

3/8 Low Profile on Homeowner Saws

Low profile cutters are lighter and need less power, and the University of Georgia says they are often found on saws up to 42 cc and commonly on saws for homeowner or arborist use. They go on low-kickback chains, with extra drive links between the cutters called bumper tie straps. Those links limit how big a bite the cutter takes as the chain rounds the top of the bar tip. A 3/8 pitch chainsaw chain in low profile is the usual homeowner fit, and I recommend the chain the manual lists with no more aggressive swap.

Do Not Guess Pitch From Engine Size

Engine size points the way but sets no rule: the Husqvarna 130 is a 38 cc saw and its manual gives it a 3/8 in pitch chain. The 40 cc Husqvarna 435 takes a .325 in pitch instead. A .404 pitch chainsaw chain belongs to far larger saws. Two saws a few cc apart take two different chains, and I trust the manual’s number over the engine size. My guide to what chainsaw cc means explains how that engine size is counted.

Pitch on Four Saws Sold on Amazon

All four saws carry a 16 inch bar, and they still take three different pitch and gauge combinations, so bar length alone never picks a chain.

Chainsaw Pitch and Gauge Work Together With Drive Links

Pitch is one of three numbers that choose a chain. Gauge is the thickness of the drive link, and it must match the width of the groove in the bar. The common gauges are .043 inch (1.1 mm), .050 inch (1.3 mm), .058 inch (1.5 mm) and .063 inch (1.6 mm). Drive links are the tabs that sit in the bar groove, and their count sets the length of the loop.

The table above shows why one number is never enough. The Husqvarna 130, the EGO and the WORX are all 3/8 in pitch, yet the gauge differs: the first takes a 0.050 in gauge chain and the other two take 0.043 in. A chain sold as 3/8 in could fit one saw and be wrong for the next. Echo’s manual puts the rule in one line: chain and guide bar gauge size must be identical. I explain how drive link thickness must fit the bar in my guide to what chainsaw gauge means.

I treat gauge as the number people forget, because pitch gets the attention and a wrong gauge is the quiet mismatch. I write the pitch, gauge and drive link count on the inside cover of the manual the day a saw arrives. Next year, when the chain is worn, the three numbers are in one place.

Why Pitch Has to Match Your Bar and Sprocket

A chain rides on two toothed parts, the drive sprocket on the saw and the nose sprocket in the bar, and both are cut for one pitch, so the chainsaw bar pitch has to equal the chain’s. The manuals go further than fit. They list the bar and chain combinations the saw is approved for, and a chain outside that list is a safety matter, not a preference. My guide to how a chainsaw works shows where the sprocket, clutch and chain meet.

Only Fit the Chain and Bar Your Manual Lists

Echo’s manual warns that replacement saw chain or guide bar other than the one specified may cause severe kickback and serious injury. If the upper part of the bar tip touches wood or another object, the bar can kick back up and toward you (rotational kickback). Laboratory tests on gas chainsaws found that proper chain tension, anti-kickback links, sliding-end guide bars and a quick chain brake all influence kickback (1). Wood matters too: a separate laboratory study found that kickback depends on the wood being cut and on where the bar tip touches it (2).

Wood pinching the chain on the top of the bar pushes the saw straight back at you (pushback), and wood pinching the bottom pulls it forward, away from you (pull-in). A low-kickback chain, a chain brake and a correct grip reduce these risks; none removes them. On a homeowner saw I keep the low-kickback chain the manual lists.

Why the Details Are Worth the Effort

Pitch does not injure anyone by itself. The injury data below show how often home users get hurt with power saws. US emergency department data for 2006 to 2016 counted 18,250 nonfatal power saw and axe injuries, and power saws caused 89 percent of them, mostly lacerations to the fingers and hand, with most happening at home (3).

A series of 185 patients treated for non-occupational chainsaw injuries in rural areas found 109 hurt in the legs and 76 in the arms, and the arm injuries cost more lost work time, 75 days against 60 (4). The authors conclude that protective gear and simple precautions can prevent such injuries. An Irish survey of 62 domestic chainsaw accidents found that only 3 percent of the injured users wore any protective gear, and the two who did wore steel-capped boots that were unsuitable for chainsaw protection (5).

How Pitch Sets the File Size

Pitch also decides which round file keeps the chain sharp: a chain of 3/8 low profile pitch takes a different file than a .404 chain. The University of Georgia gives the file size and depth gauge setting for each pitch, and the three rows homeowners meet most are in the table.

Your saw’s manual wins over a general table. Husqvarna’s T435 manual, for example, lists a 5/32 in file for its 3/8 in mini chains. Use the file the manual names for the chain on your saw. I go through that 12 inch top-handle saw in my review of the Husqvarna T435.

The University of Georgia gives two signs that a chain needs sharpening: you have to press on the saw to make it cut, or the chips come out fine and dust-like. On dense stone-fruit wood I read fine dust as a dull chain before I suspect the saw. Sharpen with an electric sharpener, a hand file or a shop, and if you doubt your filing angle I recommend the shop over guessing. Follow the stop and disconnect order from the measuring section before the chain is touched.

A new chain also has a break-in run, and your manual sets it. The University of Georgia gives 2 to 3 minutes of running before the tension check. After the run, make the saw safe again before you touch the chain, in this order.

1. Release the trigger, engage the chain brake (on a battery or corded saw, if it has a brake lever), switch the engine or motor off, and wait until the chain has stopped.
2. On a gas saw, let the engine and muffler cool, then pull the spark plug cap off. On a battery saw, take the battery out. On a corded saw, pull the plug from the outlet by the plug, not by the cord.
3. Put on gloves before you touch the chain.
4. Check the tension as your manual describes. Release the chain brake only when the manual’s procedure requires it, and never force a locked chain or cover.

Mistakes to Avoid When Buying a Replacement Chain

Most wrong chains are bought with the right bar length and the wrong everything else. The mistakes below are the ones that cost a return trip, or worse, a chain that runs but does not belong on the saw.

• Ordering by bar length alone: a 16 inch bar takes more than one chain. The Husqvarna 435 and the Husqvarna 130 both carry 16 inch bars, and they take different pitches. My guide to what size chainsaw you need covers bar length by job.
• Trusting a worn etching: when the paint wears off the bar, the numbers are hard to read, so use the manual or the photo you took early.
• Fitting a chain the manual does not list: a chain or bar outside the approved list can cause severe kickback, according to Echo.
• Counting drive links by eye: the link count follows the bar length, and the manual lists it for each approved bar.
• Skipping the sprocket check: the University of Georgia tells owners to check the sprocket teeth for wear when they change the chain.

What to Bring to the Shop

Bring the photo of the bar etching and the manual page with the approved chain and its part number. With those two, a counter hand can match a chain in a minute. Without them, you are guessing at the three numbers that must all be right.

Check These Numbers Before You Order a Chain

Run one check before you order. Read the pitch and gauge on the bar’s tail, then find the approved chain and its drive link count for your bar in the manual. If the etching is unreadable, use the part number the manual gives, or ask a dealer. Husqvarna advises that route when you are unsure.

Match all three numbers, pitch, gauge and drive links, to what the manual lists, and fit nothing else. Knowing the chainsaw pitch of your saw before you shop is what lets a new chain seat on the sprocket and bar the way the maker built them.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the pitch on a chainsaw chain?

The pitch on a chainsaw chain is its overall size, found by measuring across three consecutive rivets and halving the result. Common sizes are .25 inch, .325 inch, 3/8 inch and .404 inch. The chain’s pitch has to match the drive sprocket and the bar tip.

How to measure chainsaw chain pitch?

To measure chainsaw chain pitch, measure from the center of one rivet to the center of the third in a row and halve the result. First release the trigger, engage the chain brake where the saw has a brake lever, switch the engine or motor off and wait until the chain has stopped, then on a gas saw let the engine and muffler cool and pull the spark plug cap, on a battery saw take the battery out, or on a corded saw pull the plug by the plug, and put on gloves before you touch the chain. Release the brake only when the manual’s procedure requires it, and read the printed number or the manual first, since that is quicker.

What is .325 pitch chain?

A .325 pitch chain is a chain whose pitch is .325 inch, a size the University of Georgia describes as made for small to medium saws that cuts smoother than 3/8 inch. Husqvarna’s manual gives the 435 a .325 inch pitch and a 0.050 inch gauge. It does not swap with a 3/8 inch chain, because pitch must match the drive sprocket and the bar tip.

What pitch is my chainsaw chain?

The pitch of your chainsaw chain is usually printed on the tail of the bar, in the operator’s manual, or stamped on the chain’s drive link. Husqvarna adds that it may also sit on the spur sprocket rim, the drive sprocket or the clutch drum. If the print is gone, the manual lists the approved chain, and a dealer can confirm it.

How to figure out chain size for chainsaw?

To figure out chain size for a chainsaw, read three numbers: pitch, gauge and the number of drive links. All three must match your bar and sprocket. The manual lists them for each approved bar, and the bar’s etching shows pitch and gauge.

References

1. Dąbrowski A. Reducing kickback of portable combustion chain saws and related injury risks: laboratory tests and deductions. Int J Occup Saf Ergon. 2012;18(3):399-417.
2. Dąbrowski A. Kickback risk of portable chainsaws while cutting wood of different properties: laboratory tests and deductions. Int J Occup Saf Ergon. 2015;21(4):512-523.
3. Sritharen Y, Hernandez MC, Zielinski MD, Aho JM. Weekend woodsmen: overview and comparison of injury patterns associated with power saw and axe utilization in the United States. Am J Emerg Med. 2018;36(5):846-850.
4. Özdeş HU, Ergen E, Köroğlu M, et al. Chainsaw-related extremity injuries. Medicina (Kaunas). 2025;61(4):759.
5. Doyle YG, Conroy RM. Prevention of timber felling and chainsaw-related accidents in the Republic of Ireland. Accid Anal Prev. 1989;21(6):529-534.

Safety Note: Read your saw’s manual first and get hands-on training before your first cut. A chainsaw can react faster than you can: if the upper part of the bar tip touches wood or another object, the bar can kick back up and toward you; wood pinching the top of the chain can push the saw straight back at you, and wood pinching the bottom can pull it forward. Keep the bar tip out of contact and watch for wood closing on the bar. A low-kickback chain and a chain brake reduce these risks but never remove them. Before each use, inspect the saw as your manual describes: test the chain brake, and check the throttle lockout, the stop switch, the chain catcher, the guards and the chain. On a gas saw the chain must not move at idle. If any check fails or a part is missing or damaged, do not use the saw until it is repaired, and never disable a safety device. Wear impact-rated safety glasses with side protection marked Z87+ (a mesh face screen adds to them but does not replace them), hearing protection, chainsaw chaps or chainsaw trousers, work gloves and sturdy boots with ankle support, and a hard hat when you fell a tree or when anything can fall from above. Use leg protection within its maker’s stated limits: some chaps are not designed to stop the chain of a battery or corded saw, and no clothing guarantees protection. Hold the saw with both hands, right hand on the rear handle and left hand on the front handle, thumbs and fingers wrapped around the handles, and keep your body to the left of the chain line with firm footing. Never cut one-handed with a rear-handle saw, never cut at or above shoulder height, and never cut from a ladder or a roof. Top-handle saws are made for trained tree workers: follow that saw’s manual. Keep children, bystanders and pets well away while you cut. Never work alone. Start a gas saw with the chain brake engaged, on the ground or held firmly as the manual shows, never by drop-starting it, and at least 10 feet from where you fuelled it. Refuel outdoors with the engine off and cool, with no smoking, flames or sparks nearby, wipe up spills, and use only the fuel mix and ethanol content your manual allows. Exhaust contains carbon monoxide, which can kill: never run a gas saw indoors or in a garage, shed or other enclosed space. Before you touch the chain, clear a jam, adjust the tension or sharpen: release the trigger, engage the chain brake, stop the engine or motor and wait until the chain has stopped. Then, on a gas saw, let the engine and muffler cool and pull the spark plug cap off; on a battery saw, take the battery out; on a corded saw, unplug it by the plug. Put on gloves before you touch the chain, and release the chain brake only when your manual’s procedure calls for it. To carry the saw, stop it, take out the battery or unplug it, keep the chain brake engaged and the bar pointing behind you, and fit the bar cover for transport. Use a corded saw only with an outdoor-rated extension cord of the gauge your manual gives, plugged into GFCI-protected power. Never use it in rain or wet conditions: GFCI protection does not make that safe. Keep the cord away from the chain. Use only the chains and bars your manual approves. Felling trees is the most dangerous chainsaw job. Before any felling cut, keep everyone at least two tree lengths away, and plan and clear two escape routes angled back from the direction of fall; when the tree starts to fall, follow your manual’s retreat steps (release the trigger, stop the saw and set it down as it describes) and move away along that route; never delay escape to cool, unplug or cover the saw. A large, leaning, dead or hung-up tree, a trunk or limb under tension after a storm, and any tree near a house or a road are jobs for a certified arborist. Power lines are a separate danger: treat every downed line, and anything touching it, as live, stay well away and call the utility; before any work near a power line, contact the utility and leave that work to its qualified line-clearance crews. Stop when you are tired, and take breaks if your hands tingle or go numb.