The best chainsaw is the one that fits the wood you cut and the upkeep you will keep up with, and that is a different saw for a limb-heavy orchard than for a woodpile. I run 3.7 acres of apricots and plums, so dead limbs, stems and storm wood come to me all year, and I put these nine saws to work on that wood.
Below are nine battery, gas and corded saws, ranked on bar length, brake, tensioning, oiling and warranty as their manuals state them. My top pick, the EGO Power+ CS1613 16 in Battery Chainsaw Kit, is the saw I recommend first to a homeowner who cuts limbs and short logs on the ground.
Best Chainsaw Reviews 2026 With 9 Saws I Put to Work
These nine saws cover the three power types a homeowner chooses between: battery, gas and corded. I rank them by what each manual says about the brake, tensioning, oiling and warranty, and by what I saw in the cut. Every one is meant for work on the ground, never in a tree.
1. EGO Power+ CS1613 16 in Battery Chainsaw Kit Best Overall
The EGO Power+ CS1613 is the chainsaw I recommend first to anyone who cuts limbs and short logs on the ground. It is a 16 in battery saw with a tool-free tensioning knob, an automatic oiler and a 4.0Ah battery with a fuel gauge in the box, so a job starts from a charged battery instead of a fuel can or an extension cord. The oil tank ships empty and bar and chain oil is not in the box, so buy a bottle before the first cut.
WHY I CHOSE THIS ✓
I put the CS1613 first because it makes the three chores that send a homeowner back to the shelf easier. A tool-free knob, an automatic oiler and a battery with a fuel gauge make tensioning, oiling and charge checks easier. I accept its limits: one 4.0Ah battery in the box, no published run time, and a bar I keep inside the size of the wood I cut. It is the saw I reach for first, and the one I recommend first.
EGO Power+ CS1613 16 in Battery Chainsaw Kit Specs
Key Features:
- Tool-free tensioning knob: a knob on the side cover sets chain tension without a wrench, and the cover knob locks it.
- Automatic oiler with a window: the 5 oz tank feeds the chain while you cut, and the window shows when the oil is gone.
- Battery with a fuel gauge: you read the charge before a cut and not halfway through a log.
- Lock-off button and variable-speed trigger: the chain stays still until you press both, and the trigger sets the speed.
- Brake position indicator: according to EGO, the saw shows where the chain brake stands, beside the brake handle.
- Bucking spikes: metal spikes let the saw pivot and hold its place against a log, as the manual’s pictures show.
- Low-kickback chain: according to EGO, the saw carries one, and the manual says to fit only the bar and chain it lists.
The 16 in bar is the length where the extension sources agree for household work: NC State says most households rarely need more than 16 in, and Alabama Extension points to 16 to 20 in bars for thick limbs and trunks. On the dead plum stems I cut into carry-size pieces, the bar spanned each piece in one pass, so I never needed the wide-trunk techniques the manuals keep for trained cutters. The 16 in is the called length, and the wood it cuts through in one pass is a little shorter.
EGO publishes no run time in minutes for this kit, so I plan the day by the work: one battery for a handful of limbs and a spare on the charger for an afternoon of logs. The 9.0 lb EGO lists is the saw without its battery and chain sheath, so the saw in your hands weighs more than that figure.
Bucking a dead stem into carry-size pieces was the second job. I lifted each piece onto a stand, because the manual says not to let the chain touch the ground and a log on the dirt carries grit that dulls a chain fast. When the cut turned from chips to fine dust I stopped and looked at the chain, since the manual treats small, powdery chips as the sign of a dull one.
EGO’s manual says a warm chain should hang about 0.050 in out of the bar groove, and that a chain tensioned warm can be too tight once it cools, so I check the cold tension before the next session. For any work on the chain, release the trigger, engage the chain brake, switch the saw off and wait until the chain has stopped, then take the battery out and put on gloves before you touch the chain; release the brake only when your manual’s procedure requires it, and never force a locked chain or cover.
Before each use, inspect the saw as its manual describes: test the chain brake by the manual’s method, and check the throttle trigger lockout, the stop switch, the chain catcher, the guards and the chain’s sharpness, tension and condition; on a gas saw the chain must not move at idle. If any check fails, do not use the saw until it is repaired, and never disable a safety device.
Oil seeps from the saw when it is not in use. EGO says that is normal and tells you to empty the tank after each use and run the saw for one minute; the saw left a dark patch on the shed floor after one night on its side. The bar tip sprocket needs grease weekly from a syringe. EGO’s manual also calls for safety glasses with side shields plus a full face shield, an approved hard hat and heavy-duty non-slip gloves.
This saw suits anyone who cuts limbs, storm wood and firewood-length pieces on the ground and wants a battery saw that is easy to keep up. EGO’s manual names basic felling, limbing, pruning and woodcutting as its uses; I keep to limbing, pruning and bucking and leave felling to training. The manual sets the height limit below the shoulder: do not cut above chest height. Skip it if you cut trunks much wider than the bar, work on storm tangles or hung wood, or need a stated run time before you buy.
FINAL VERDICT
The CS1613 is the saw I recommend to most homeowners: easy to start, easy to tension and easy to keep oiled. Match each job to one battery.
It is the battery chainsaw I recommend to most homeowners.
2. Husqvarna 455 Rancher 20 in Gas Chainsaw Best Premium
The Husqvarna 455 Rancher is the best Husqvarna chainsaw on this page for anyone who cuts more wood than a battery covers in one sitting. It pairs a 55.5 cc engine with a 20 in bar and a manual that approves bars up to 24 in, so one powerhead handles limbs and heavier logs on the ground. It is my premium pick because Husqvarna builds in what a long day asks for, from a decompression valve to a vibration damping system.
WHY I CHOSE THIS ✓
I choose the 455 for the person who splits the week between orchard cleanup and a pile of logs. Its brake can be set by hand or tripped by inertia, and the manual describes a test for each, which is the documentation I want from a saw this size. The 20 in bar and the optional 24 in give it room to grow. I pay with wrench tensioning, a measured mix and a heavier saw.
Husqvarna 455 Rancher 20 in Gas Chainsaw Specs
Key Features:
- 55.5 cc engine, 3.5 hp: rated at 3.5 hp (2.6 kW) at 9000 rpm, sized to pull a 20 in bar.
- Bar range to 24 in: the manual approves 15, 16, 18, 20 and 24 in bars, so the saw can grow with the job.
- Two ways to stop the chain: push the front hand guard forward, or let the inertia release trip in a kickback; the manual tests each.
- Adjustable automatic oiler: a screw sets the oil flow, and the 0.68 pint tank feeds the chain while you cut.
- Decompression valve and purge bulb: both sit in the manual’s start sequence.
- Vibration damping system: three damping units sit between the engine and the handles.
- Extendable warranty: two years standard, or three or five with Husqvarna’s oil or fuel on the same receipt.
On the heavier pieces the 20 in bar let the cut keep moving without me leaning on the saw. Husqvarna’s manual says to drop to idle between cuts, because running too long at full throttle without load can damage the engine, so I let go of the trigger the moment a log parts. The manual asks for gloves, pants and boots with saw protection, a steel toe cap, a non-slip sole and an approved helmet. The 13.2 lb in the specifications is the powerhead alone, so the saw weighs more in your hands.
Husqvarna’s manual calls for a 2 percent mix, 2 1/2 US fl oz of two-stroke oil per US gallon of gasoline with no more than 10 percent ethanol. To refuel, release the throttle trigger, engage the chain brake, switch the engine off and wait until the chain has stopped, let the engine and muffler cool, refuel outdoors with no smoking, open flame or sparks nearby, wipe up spills, and move at least 10 feet away before you start. The exhaust contains carbon monoxide, so never run a gas saw indoors or in a garage, shed or other enclosed space.
Cold mornings taught me the most. Mixed fuel that had sat in the tool shed for a few weeks made the saw hard to start, and fresh mix and a clean air filter fixed it. For winter the manual gives two seasonal steps, remove the plug in the cylinder cover at 32 F or colder and fit the winter cover on the starter housing at 23 F or colder, then put both back to the summer setup as it warms.
Start a gas saw with the chain brake engaged, on the ground with the bar clear of anything or held firmly as the manual shows, never by drop-starting it, and at least 10 feet from where you fuelled it. Husqvarna’s manual then gives the full sequence (choke, air purge bulb, decompression valve, then the pull), so follow it from the manual of the saw you own.
A gas saw earns its check routine: before each use, inspect the saw as its manual describes: test the chain brake by the manual’s method, and check the throttle trigger lockout, the stop switch, the chain catcher, the guards and the chain’s sharpness, tension and condition; on a gas saw the chain must not move at idle. If any check fails, do not use the saw until it is repaired, and never disable a safety device.
Two-stroke upkeep is the price of this saw. Gum from cut plum wood collected around the chain brake and the clutch drum, and the manual says dirt and wear there can decrease the function of the brake. Before any work on the chain or clutch, release the throttle trigger, engage the chain brake, switch the engine off and wait until the chain has stopped, let the engine and muffler cool, pull the spark plug cap off, and put on gloves before you touch the chain; release the brake only when your manual’s procedure requires it, and never force a locked chain or cover.
Choose it if you cut firewood, storm limbs and fallen trunks on the ground and want a gas saw with a decompression valve, two ways to stop the chain and a bar range that reaches 24 in. Pass on it if you want the lightest saw, a tool-free tensioner or a quiet saw for small branches near the house. Leave felling large trees to trained people: the manual says you must have experience to fell a tree.
FINAL VERDICT
Pick the 455 Rancher when your wood pile outgrows a battery. The manual tests its brake two ways, and you pay for that with a wrench, a measured mix and ear protection.
It is the gas saw I recommend when the wood pile is big.
3. Husqvarna 120 Mark III 16 in Gas Chainsaw Best Value
The Husqvarna 120 Mark III is the best chainsaw for the money here if your work is occasional and your wood is small: a budget-tier gas saw from a dealer brand, with a 38 cc engine, a 16 in bar, a documented brake and an automatic oiler. Husqvarna’s manual describes it for forest work such as felling, delimbing and bucking, and I use it only for limbs and short logs on the ground. Its scope is plain, because it is the weakest gas saw on this page for big wood and it asks for the same care as a bigger one.
WHY I CHOSE THIS ✓
I chose the 120 Mark III as my value pick because it gives the dealer-brand basics at the lowest cost of entry: a brake that works by hand or by inertia, an automatic oiler and a manual that spells out each test. I rate it for occasional work on small wood and hold it to that. It is the gas saw I recommend on a tight budget.
Husqvarna 120 Mark III 16 in Gas Chainsaw Specs
Key Features:
- 38 cc engine and 16 in bar: the manual approves 14 in and 16 in bars, and the 16 in has a cutting length of 13.5 to 15 in.
- Brake by hand or inertia: the front hand guard works the brake by hand, and an inertia release trips it automatically.
- Separate choke and stop controls: the choke is its own control, which makes the start a fixed order of steps.
- Air purge bulb: the manual’s cold start has you push it six times before you pull the rope.
- Automatic oil pump: the 0.15 L tank is checked at each refuel by running the saw at three-quarter throttle until a line of oil shows on a light surface.
- Low-kickback chain and bar: the manual lists the 16 in bar with the S93G chain as meeting ANSI B175.1-2021 and CSA Z62.3 kickback requirements.
- Vibration damping system: a damping system sits between the body and the handle unit to take the edge off the engine.
The first knot taught me the manual’s tension rule. The chain on the new saw had loosened after a few cuts and jumped off the bar, which is the failure Husqvarna’s manual describes: a chain with incorrect tension can come loose from the guide bar and cause serious injury, and a new chain’s tension is checked often until it is run in. The 16 in bar then cut small limbs and short logs on the ground, and I kept each piece inside the 13.5 to 15 in of cutting length.
Husqvarna’s manual gives 95 dB(A) at the operator’s ear for this saw and a sound power level of 113 dB(A); the two figures measure different things, so I never set one against the other. Next to a hand saw, a limb as thick as my forearm took less effort and far more noise, and hearing protection goes on before the engine starts.
The oil tank holds 0.15 L and the fuel tank 0.28 L, and the manual has you check the oil at every refuel. The bar smoked once when the oil ran low mid-session, which is why I check the tank every time I fuel. For long storage the manual says to empty the fuel and chain oil tanks, take the spark plug cap off, engage the chain brake and fit the transportation guard.
Wear impact-rated safety glasses with side protection marked Z87+ (a mesh face screen adds to them but never replaces them), hearing protection, chainsaw chaps or chainsaw trousers used within their maker’s stated limits (some are not designed to stop a battery or corded saw’s chain, and no clothing guarantees protection), work gloves and sturdy boots with ankle support, plus a hard hat when you fell a tree or anything can fall from above. Husqvarna’s own manual adds boots with saw protection, a steel toe cap and a non-slip sole, gloves and pants with saw protection and a protective helmet, and it says protective equipment does not give you full protection from injuries.
Before any work on the chain or clutch, release the throttle trigger, engage the chain brake, switch the engine off and wait until the chain has stopped, let the engine and muffler cool, pull the spark plug cap off, and put on gloves before you touch the chain; release the brake only when your manual’s procedure requires it, and never force a locked chain or cover.
Living with it means measured fuel: Husqvarna’s manual calls for 2 1/2 US fl oz of two-stroke oil per US gallon of gasoline with no more than 10 percent ethanol, and says not to keep mixed fuel longer than a month. A saw that will not start or that stalls points first to the wrong fuel or a clogged air or fuel filter, which is the manual’s own troubleshooting list.
It fits a buyer who wants the lowest-cost way into a gas saw from a dealer brand, for small trees, limbs and short logs on the ground, and you will read the manual and wear the full gear. Skip it if you want no fuel handling, cut large logs, or are buying a saw as a gift for someone who has never used one: the manual says to attend a chainsaw training course if possible. It is the best budget chainsaw on this page for small wood, and nothing more.
FINAL VERDICT
The 120 Mark III fits a tight budget and light work, and it stops there: leave big logs to bigger gear.
It is the budget gas saw I recommend for small wood.
4. Milwaukee M18 FUEL 2727-21HD 16 in Chainsaw Kit Best Milwaukee Battery Chainsaw
The Milwaukee M18 FUEL 2727-21HD is the Milwaukee battery chainsaw I pick for anyone who already owns M18 tools. The kit comes with a 12.0Ah battery, the largest in the box on this page, and any M18 battery fits the saw. Chain oil is not supplied, so buy a bottle before you start.
WHY I CHOSE THIS ✓
The 2727-21HD sits fourth because it does one thing better than most: it states the wood it can cut. The 15 in capacity and the 12.0Ah battery suit a trained user with M18 tools already on the shelf. I recommend it to that user.
Milwaukee M18 FUEL 2727-21HD 16 in Chainsaw Kit Specs
Key Features:
- 15 in cutting capacity: the manual prints a capacity next to the 16 in bar, so you see the wood the saw can go through and not only the bar length.
- M18 compatibility: any M18 battery fits, and Milwaukee recommends its high-output and 12.0Ah batteries for the best power and runtime.
- Hand guard brake: the manual says the brake stops the chain if kickback occurs, and you lock it with a push forward.
- On-board scrench: the combination wrench stores on the saw for tensioning.
- Automatic oiler: you refill the 6.7 oz tank when it falls below a quarter and after each full battery discharge.
The manual prints the number that matters on a log: a cutting capacity of 15 in with the 16 in bar. Milwaukee is as blunt about the limit, saying that a tree, log or limb thicker than the capacity takes advanced techniques and belongs to trained professionals, so I read 15 in as a ceiling and not a target.
Milwaukee prints no clear weight for the kit with its battery, and a 12.0Ah battery makes the saw feel heavier at the end of a long afternoon than at the start. The maker’s cuts-per-charge claim names no log size or battery, so I plan by the work and keep the saw to limbs and short logs. I go through the full 2727-21HD kit in my Milwaukee M18 FUEL chainsaw review.
Before real work I run the saw for about 30 seconds with the bar tip near a pale board and look for an oil line, which is the manual’s own oil check.
Wear impact-rated safety glasses with side protection marked Z87+ (a mesh face screen adds to them but never replaces them), hearing protection, chainsaw chaps or chainsaw trousers used within their maker’s stated limits (some are not designed to stop a battery or corded saw’s chain, and no clothing guarantees protection), work gloves and sturdy boots with ankle support, plus a hard hat when you fell a tree or anything can fall from above.
On frost mornings I keep the 12.0Ah battery in the house overnight and carry it out when I start; the manual lists a recommended ambient range of 0 F to 125 F.
It suits anyone who already owns M18 batteries and wants one saw for limbs, fallen branches and logs within the 15 in capacity. Skip it if you want tool-free tensioning, a published run time or a noise figure.
FINAL VERDICT
Own M18 batteries and stay inside 15 in of wood, and the 2727-21HD earns its place.
It is the M18 saw I pick for limbs and short logs.
5. Makita XCU04PT1 36V LXT 16 in Chain Saw Kit Best Makita Battery Chainsaw
The Makita XCU04PT1 is the Makita battery powered chainsaw I pick for a long session, because the kit holds four 5.0Ah batteries and a dual-port charger. The saw runs on two 18V batteries at once, so one pair works while the other charges. Chain oil is not in the box.
WHY I CHOSE THIS ✓
Four batteries earn the XCU04PT1 fifth place, because they turn charging into a rotation. Add a run-down brake, tool-less tensioning and an adjustable oiler and it is a well-equipped saw for a long afternoon. I accept that it is not light.
Makita XCU04PT1 36V LXT 16 in Chain Saw Kit Specs
Key Features:
- Four batteries: two pairs and a dual-port charger let one pair work while the other charges.
- Run-down brake: the manual says the chain must stand still within one second after you release the trigger.
- Tool-less tensioning: a lever and an adjusting dial set the chain tension without a wrench.
- Adjustable oiler: a screw under the saw sets the oil feed, and the translucent 200 mL tank shows the level.
- Main power switch with a lamp: protection stops the saw on overload, overheating or over-discharge, and the lamp or indicator blinks.
The brake caught earlier than I expected the first time my wrist rolled onto the front guard. The manual describes two checks: the hand guard pushed forward with the saw running must give an immediate standstill, and the run-down brake must bring the chain to rest within one second of releasing the trigger.
Two pairs of batteries changed how I plan a long hedgerow afternoon: one pair in the saw and the other on the charger in the tool shed. Makita’s 380-cut figure is for four 5.0Ah batteries cutting a 4 x 4 of cedar, so it says little about logs, and the saw does not run on one battery at all.
After I turned on the main switch and paused to line up a cut, the saw switched itself off; the manual says it does that when the trigger is not pulled for a while, and you turn the main switch on again.
Two brakes mean two checks: before each use, inspect the saw as its manual describes: test the chain brake by the manual’s method, and check the throttle trigger lockout, the stop switch, the chain catcher, the guards and the chain’s sharpness, tension and condition; on a gas saw the chain must not move at idle. If any check fails, do not use the saw until it is repaired, and never disable a safety device.
Charge the batteries between 50 F and 104 F, and do not store the saw or batteries where the temperature may reach 122 F.
Choose it when you want a cordless saw for a long session on swapped batteries, already run 18V LXT tools or like tool-less tension. Skip it if you want the lightest saw, a 20 in bar or a noise figure; the manual limits felling, limbing and plunge cuts to trained people.
FINAL VERDICT
If your work runs past one pair of batteries, the XCU04PT1 keeps cutting while the spare pair charges.
It is the long-session battery saw I pick.
6. Greenworks 40V 16 in Brushless Chainsaw 20312 Kit Best Greenworks Chainsaw
The Greenworks 40V 20312 is the Greenworks chainsaw I recommend to a buyer who wants a 16 in battery saw with the battery and charger in the box and no fuel to mix. Chain oil is not in the box. According to Greenworks, the battery works across more than 75 of its 40V tools.
WHY I CHOSE THIS ✓
The 20312 takes sixth place because it gives a 16 in bar, a battery and a charger at a mid-range tier with no fuel to handle. It is the saw I recommend to a buyer who accepts a spanner, and weight is the price.
Greenworks 40V 16 in Brushless Chainsaw 20312 Kit Specs
Key Features:
- 16 in bar on a 40V battery saw: a bar length that sits inside the household range the extension sources give.
- Brake beep at start-up: a rapid beeping when you try to start means the brake is engaged, so you reset it and start again.
- Translucent oil tank: a quick-view indicator and a flip-up cap, according to Greenworks.
- Push-button start: you press and hold the switch, squeeze the trigger and release the switch lock, with no pull cord or priming.
- Battery protection: an internal circuit breaker stops the battery under heavy load, and it may need a minute out of the saw to cool.
The beep surprised me the first time. I tried to start the saw with the brake still set, and the rapid beeping told me to reset the brake, which is what the manual says it means.
In a thick limb the battery cut out under load. I released the trigger, engaged the chain brake, switched the saw off, waited for the chain to stop and took the battery out to cool; the manual says it may need about a minute out of the saw. Greenworks claims up to 120 cuts per charge with no wood size, so I do not plan by it.
Where felled wood lay near a drip line, I marked the line with stakes before I cut, so that neither the saw nor the logs landed on the emitter tubing.
A new chain stretches, so check the tension often at first; the manual says a warm chain’s drive links hang about 1/16 in out of the bar groove. For any work on the chain, release the trigger, engage the chain brake, switch the saw off and wait until the chain has stopped, then take the battery out and put on gloves before you touch the chain; release the brake only when your manual’s procedure requires it, and never force a locked chain or cover.
The manual gives 10.36 lb as the unit weight without stating a basis, and a 16 in saw gets heavy late in a session. The brake is a lever you test before every use. I review this 20312 saw on its own in my Greenworks 40V chainsaw review.
Pick it for a 16 in battery saw that handles limbs, storm tidy-up of small wood and firewood-length cutting with no fuel. Skip it if you want tool-free tensioning, a lighter saw or big-log capacity.
FINAL VERDICT
The 20312 gives you a 16 in bar and a battery with no fuel to mix, and it asks you to accept a spanner and some weight.
It is the simple 16 in battery saw I recommend.
7. DeWalt DCCS672X1 60V MAX 18 in Chainsaw Kit Best DeWalt Battery Chainsaw
The DeWalt DCCS672X1 is the DeWalt battery chainsaw I pick for a trained user with heavier limbs and logs, and it has the longest bar of the battery saws on this page, 18 in. DeWalt’s manual calls it a professional power tool and limits its logs to 16 in. The kit holds one FLEXVOLT battery and a charger.
WHY I CHOSE THIS ✓
The DCCS672X1 lands seventh as the heavy-limb battery saw, built for a trained user who respects the 16 in log limit. DeWalt’s manual says felling should only be performed by a trained person. I treat that line as the buying advice.
DeWalt DCCS672X1 60V MAX 18 in Chainsaw Kit Specs
Key Features:
- 60V MAX brushless system: DeWalt’s own footnote gives the nominal voltage as 54V.
- 18 in bar, 16 in log limit: the manual’s intended use is logs up to 16 in, shorter than the called bar length.
- On-board wrench: a wrench with a screwdriver end stores on the saw for chain tension.
- Overload cut-off: if too much force is applied the saw turns off, and you release the trigger before it restarts.
- Oil level indicator: the automatic oiler has a gauge you can see, and you refill when it reads below a quarter.
On a dense stem too much push shut the saw off, which is the manual’s overload behavior. I released the trigger, restarted and let the chain cut at its own pace.
The bar is 18 in and the manual’s limit is logs up to 16 in, so I work inside 16 in. DeWalt prints no weight for the saw alone and no chain speed, so I do not count on either figure.
In the field the wrench was already on the saw: the manual has you loosen the bar nuts, turn the tension screw and retighten the nuts to 6 ft. lbs.
For any work on the chain, release the trigger, engage the chain brake, switch the saw off and wait until the chain has stopped, then take the battery out and put on gloves before you touch the chain; release the brake only when your manual’s procedure requires it, and never force a locked chain or cover.
The manual forbids plunge cuts and bore cuts, says not to use the saw under wet conditions and says not to cut vines or small brush, so it is a poor saw for brush clearing and for rain. DeWalt’s manual says to charge the battery between 40 F and 104 F, and in its operation section it sets the height limit at chest height: do not cut above it.
It belongs with a trained user who is already on DeWalt FLEXVOLT batteries and wants a long-bar battery saw for heavy limbs and logs up to 16 in. Skip it if you are new to chainsaws, clear brush or want a published weight and run time.
FINAL VERDICT
The DCCS672X1 rewards a trained user who works inside 16 in logs and keeps it out of rain and brush.
It is the long-bar battery saw I pick for trained users.
8. Oregon CS1500 18 in Corded Electric Chainsaw Best Corded Electric Chainsaw
The Oregon CS1500 is the best corded electric chainsaw for a homeowner who always has an outlet near the work. It is an 18 in, 15 A saw with a built-in sharpener, a tool-free tensioning ring and an automatic oiler, and it needs no fuel and no battery. Bar and chain oil is not in the box, and neither is an extension cord.
WHY I CHOSE THIS ✓
The CS1500 is eighth because it is the only corded saw on the list and a plain way to cut small wood near a socket. No fuel, no battery to buy and no file for the chain keep it simple. The cord is the whole limit.
Oregon CS1500 18 in Corded Electric Chainsaw Specs
Key Features:
- PowerSharp built-in sharpener: with the saw at full speed you lift a red lever for 3 to 5 seconds, and the manual says sparks and some smoke are normal.
- Tool-free tensioning ring: you turn it by hand with the side cover knob slightly loosened and the bar nose held up.
- 15 A, 1,800 W motor: the manual rates the saw for 120 V.
- Brake that stops motor and chain: the saw will not run with the brake engaged.
- Cord hook on the rear handle: the extension cord loops through the handle and over the hook.
The sparks surprised me the first time I lifted the PowerSharp lever for the stated three to five seconds. The manual says sparks and some smoke are normal, warns against using the saw near gasoline or acetylene, and allows only PowerSharp chain with the genuine stone.
I loop the extension cord on the rear-handle hook and keep it behind me when I trim a dead plum limb near the machinery shed. The manual’s table allows an extension cord of at most 100 ft, with 14 AWG up to 50 ft and 12 AWG from 51 to 100 ft.
One morning the oil window showed a low reservoir, and I refilled it before the next cut; the manual says never to operate the saw if oil is not visible in the window.
Use an outdoor-rated extension cord of the gauge your manual gives for its length, plug into GFCI-protected power, never use the saw in rain or wet conditions (GFCI protection does not make that safe), keep the cord away from the chain, and unplug it before any work on the chain.
PowerSharp is a closed system: PowerSharp chain only, the genuine stone, and the stone is replaced with every chain. The manual calls the saw a tool for occasional light-duty use and keeps everyone, children and pets included, out of a circle of at least 20 ft (6 m) around you.
An outlet near your work and small wood make this the saw: limbs and short logs on a sawhorse or cradle. Skip it if you cut far from power or in wet conditions, or want to fit ordinary chain without removing the sharpener. I give the 18 in corded saw its own verdict in my review of the Oregon CS1500.
FINAL VERDICT
Plan the cord before the cut, and the CS1500 handles small wood beside an outlet with simple upkeep.
It is the corded saw I keep for jobs near the shed.
9. CRAFTSMAN V20 CMCCS620M1 12 in Cordless Chainsaw Kit Best Small Chainsaw
The CRAFTSMAN V20 CMCCS620M1 is the best small chainsaw on this page: a 12 in battery saw with two handles, and a manual that sets its job as pruning and logs up to 10 in. The kit has one 4.0Ah battery, a charger and a bar cover, and the oil is yours to buy.
WHY I CHOSE THIS ✓
The CMCCS620M1 closes the list because it is the saw for small jobs and I want its limits stated: no weight, no pitch and no run time from the maker. Within its 10 in limit it is a handy saw to keep in reach.
CRAFTSMAN V20 CMCCS620M1 12 in Cordless Chainsaw Kit Specs
Key Features:
- 12 in bar, 10 in logs: the manual’s intended use is pruning and logs up to 10 in.
- Tool-free tensioning: you loosen a locking knob one turn, turn the tension knob and tighten the lock until it gives three audible clicks.
- Auto oiler with an indicator: you check the level with the saw off and refill when it falls below a quarter.
- Bubble level and bottom spike: for flat horizontal cuts on fence, deck or railing posts.
- V20 battery family: according to CRAFTSMAN, the same 20V Max batteries run its V20 tools.
I used the bubble level and the bottom spike to cut a fence post flat. Start the cut at full speed, set the spike behind it and rotate the bar down; the manual says not to change the angle once the notch is set, because that bends the bar.
On a low hedgerow branch I kept the cut below chest height, the limit in CRAFTSMAN’s manual. The saw cut small dead plum limbs into carry-size pieces, and the manual’s 10 in log limit is the ceiling for every piece.
I empty the oil tank when I finish cutting, as the manual says, so the next session starts with a refill; the manual recommends vegetable-based oil when pruning trees.
Never cut at or above shoulder height, and never cut from a ladder or a roof. CRAFTSMAN’s manual is stricter and says do not cut above chest height.
CRAFTSMAN lists a brushed motor and publishes no weight, chain speed, run time or charge time, so I judge the saw by the work it does. The manual forbids plunge cuts and bore cuts, says to charge only in a CRAFTSMAN charger, and says felling should only be performed by a trained person.
Its work is small limbs, fallen branches and logs up to 10 in, plus posts that need a flat cut. Skip it if you cut larger logs, want a bar over 12 in or need a published run time.
FINAL VERDICT
Keep the CMCCS620M1 for pruning, limbs and posts inside its 10 in limit.
It is the small battery saw I keep for light jobs.
How to Choose the Best Chainsaw
A chainsaw buyer decides on six things: power type, bar length, brake and safety parts, weight, upkeep and warranty. I work through them in that order, because the wood decides the first two and the manual decides the rest.
Choose the Power Type for Your Wood
Gas, battery and corded saws suit different work, and the next section sets them side by side. Start with the total minutes of cutting you do and not one job: a few cuts a day suit a battery, and a long day of big wood suits a gas saw with a fuel can in reach. I count minutes this way for every battery tool in the orchard, and the best cordless chainsaw for me is the one with a second battery on the charger. For a long day of big wood, my best chainsaw for firewood list ranks seven saws for bucking logs at home and on the farm.
- Battery: best for small and medium jobs, with no fuel to mix and a push-button start.
- Gas: best for long sessions and bigger wood, with a measured fuel mix to keep fresh.
- Corded: best for short jobs beside an outlet, with a cord that sets your reach.
Match the Bar Length to the Wood
The bar is measured from the front tip back to the cutter closest to the body and rounded to the nearest inch, and that called length is longer than the wood the saw cuts through in one pass. The maker’s manual gives the cutting length, and the gap runs from a fraction of an inch to a couple of inches: one manual here lists a 16 in bar with a cutting length of 14 3/4 in, and another an 18 in bar with 17 in.
| Bar length | Job it suits |
|---|---|
| 8 to 15 in | Light-duty work such as cutting small limbs and trees |
| 16 to 20 in | Frequent cutting of thick limbs and trunks |
| Over 20 in | Typically professional-grade saws, not recommended for homeowners |
NC State says most households are unlikely to need more than 16 in. For the tree itself, UGA advises a bar slightly longer than the diameter, and Oregon State advises one as long as the diameter of the largest tree you will cut. Fruit-tree pruning on live wood stays with loppers and a hand saw in my work, and a chainsaw comes out only for the big cuts, so my bars stay short. My best mini chainsaw list covers five cordless pruning saws for branch work.
Pro Tip
Buy the bar that meets your cutting needs and no longer. Alabama Extension warns that the larger the saw, the heavier it gets and the greater the risk of fatigue and injury later in the day.
Check the Brake and the Safety Parts
Every saw on this page has a chain brake worked by the front hand guard, and some add an inertia release or an electric run-down brake. A brake does not make a kickback safe: one maker’s manual asks whether the chain brake will always protect you in a kickback and answers no. I rank seven saws that carry a chain brake for newer users in my best chainsaw for beginners list.
If the upper part of the bar tip touches wood or another object, the bar can kick back up and toward you (rotational kickback). Wood pinching the chain on the top of the bar pushes the saw straight back at you (pushback), and wood pinching the bottom pulls it forward, away from you (pull-in). A low-kickback chain, a chain brake and a correct grip reduce these risks; none removes them.
Laboratory tests on gas saws found that proper chain tension, anti-kickback chain links, guide bars with sliding endings and a quickly activated chain brake influence kickback (1). That supports the habit I keep: a correctly tensioned chain, only the chain and bar the manual lists, and a brake tested each time.
- Brake: a front hand guard that stops the chain by hand, with an inertia release on some saws.
- Throttle lockout or lock-off: a control that keeps the saw from starting by accident.
- Chain catcher: a stud that catches a chain that breaks or comes off the bar.
- Low-kickback chain: a chain marked as meeting the kickback standard, kept on a homeowner saw.
Make the inspection a habit. Before each use, inspect the saw as its manual describes: test the chain brake by the manual’s method, and check the throttle trigger lockout, the stop switch, the chain catcher, the guards and the chain’s sharpness, tension and condition; on a gas saw the chain must not move at idle. If any check fails, do not use the saw until it is repaired, and never disable a safety device. The brake test differs by maker: some tilt the left wrist onto the guard with the saw running, and others drop the bar tip onto wood with the engine stopped, so use the method in your manual.
Read Weight With Its Basis
The weights on spec sheets describe different things: a powerhead without bar and chain, a saw with bar and chain but no battery, or a saw with one named battery. Compare only figures with the same basis, and ask what a number leaves out.
| Weight basis | What the figure includes | What it leaves out |
|---|---|---|
| Powerhead only | The engine or motor and the body | Bar, chain, fuel, oil and any battery |
| Without battery | The saw with bar and chain mounted | The battery, and sometimes the chain sheath |
| With battery | The saw plus one named battery | Any other battery, so the figure holds only for that one |
In a study of 40 loggers in Sicily, heart rate rose as the chainsaw got heavier, and the workers underestimated their own physical load (2). A saw that feels light at the start of a session feels heavy late in it, so I judge weight at the end of a long afternoon and not in the shop. My best lightweight chainsaw list covers seven compact saws for limbs and small logs.
Look at Tensioning, Oiling and Upkeep
A new chain stretches, so its tension is checked often at first, and makers describe the right tension in different ways: a gap in millimeters on one, a snap-back test after pulling the chain from the bar on another. A tool-free knob or lever saves a wrench, and a wrench-tensioned saw is as sound as long as you tension it as its manual says.
An automatic oiler needs a level you can see, and bar and chain oil is not in the box of most saws. Bar oil drips and sprays as the chain runs, so I cut on a stand or a hard pad and not over the tree rows or the drip lines. Fine dust instead of chips is the sign of a dull chain.
Shut the saw down before any work on the chain, in the order that fits its power type:
- Every saw, first step: release the trigger, engage the chain brake (on a battery or corded saw, if it has a brake lever), switch the engine or motor off and wait until the chain has stopped.
- Gas, then: let the engine and muffler cool, pull the spark plug cap off, and put on gloves before you touch the chain, clear a jam or adjust the tension.
- Battery, then: take the battery out and put on gloves before you touch the chain, clear debris, adjust the tension or carry the saw.
- Corded, then: pull the plug from the outlet by the plug and not by the cord, and put on gloves before you touch the chain, clear a jam or adjust the tension.
- Every saw, always: release the chain brake only when the exact manual’s procedure requires it, and never force a locked chain or cover.
To carry a saw, stop it as above, take the battery out or unplug it, engage the chain brake, point the bar behind you and fit the bar cover.
To refuel, release the throttle trigger, engage the chain brake, switch the engine off and wait until the chain has stopped, let the engine and muffler cool, refuel outdoors with no smoking, open flame or sparks nearby, wipe up spills, and move at least 10 feet away before you start. The exhaust contains carbon monoxide, so never run a gas saw indoors or in a garage, shed or other enclosed space. Fuel mix, octane and ethanol limits differ by maker: Husqvarna and ECHO allow up to 10 percent ethanol and ECHO bans E15 and E85, so read the manual of the saw you buy.
Gas Fuel and Exhaust
To refuel, release the throttle trigger, engage the chain brake, switch the engine off and wait until the chain has stopped, let the engine and muffler cool, refuel outdoors with no smoking, open flame or sparks nearby, wipe up spills, and move at least 10 feet away before you start. The exhaust contains carbon monoxide, so never run a gas saw indoors or in a garage, shed or other enclosed space.
Read the Warranty and the Manual
Warranty terms in this price range read alike on the surface and differ in the small print. One maker lists five years on the tool for household use, and another’s two-year warranty extends to three or five only with its oil or fuel on the same receipt and online registration, with commercial, agricultural, retail, industrial and rental use excluded. If you farm, as I do, read that exclusion list before you count on an extension, and weigh the brand for its manuals, parts and service more than for any ranking of the best chainsaw brands.
Read the manual before the first start, and train: Clemson recommends professional training for working with chainsaws, and Alabama Extension says every chainsaw operator should ideally attend chainsaw safety training.
Key Takeaway
Match the bar length to the wood, buy the power type you will keep up, and judge a saw by what its manual says about the brake, tensioning, oiling and warranty.
Battery, Corded or Gas Saws and the Yard Each One Fits
Each power type earns its place on this list, and each one costs you something. The table sets them side by side, and the sentences after it give the short version of the battery-against-gas question.
| Power type | Best for | Reach | Noise and exhaust | Upkeep |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Battery | Small and medium jobs: limbs, storm tidy-up, short logs | As far as you walk until the battery ends | Quieter than gas, with hearing protection still needed; no exhaust | Charging, bar oil and chain care; no fuel |
| Gas | Long sessions and bigger wood | As far as you walk with a fuel can | Loudest; exhaust carries carbon monoxide, so outdoors only | A fresh measured mix, filters, spark plug and chain care |
| Corded | Short jobs within reach of an outlet | Set by the cord; one corded manual allows up to 100 ft of extension cord, 14 AWG to 50 ft and 12 AWG from 51 to 100 ft | No exhaust; hearing protection still needed | Cord and GFCI care, bar oil and chain care |
Alabama Extension puts it plainly: gas saws are more powerful, while battery saws are quieter, start at the push of a button, need less maintenance and have enough power for most smaller jobs. In a NIOSH sample of landscaping workers, noise and carbon monoxide exposure was significantly higher with fuel-powered leaf blowers, string trimmers and chainsaws than with their battery versions (3).
The best electric chainsaw for you is a battery saw if you move around the property, and a corded saw if the work stays beside an outlet. A battery lets you roam, and the cord sets the edge of the job. A corded electric chainsaw needs no recharge stops and ends where its cord ends, within the saw’s light-duty limits. My corded electric chainsaw picks rank five plug-in saws for yard work.
For a long session on batteries, the best battery chainsaw is one you can swap a second battery into while the first charges. That matters more on a hedgerow afternoon than any single figure on the box. My battery chainsaw ranking puts nine cordless saws side by side by bar, brake and battery kit.
On gas, the best gas chainsaw is a midsize saw you are ready to feed fresh mix, and Husqvarna’s manual says not to keep mixed fuel longer than a month. Husqvarna covers two rungs of this list, a 38 cc saw for small limbs and a 55.5 cc saw for logs on the ground. My gas chainsaw picks cover five rear-handle saws for yard, orchard and storm work.
Chainsaw Safety Before You Buy
A chainsaw is the most dangerous tool I write about, and a buyer’s first jobs are to match the saw to the work and to get training. US emergency department data for 2006 to 2016 show that power saws caused 89 percent of 18,250 saw and axe injuries, mostly lacerations to the fingers and hand, and that most happened at home (4). That count covers power saws in general and does not isolate chainsaws.
Gear and Grip
Wear impact-rated safety glasses with side protection marked Z87+ (a mesh face screen adds to them but never replaces them), hearing protection, chainsaw chaps or chainsaw trousers used within their maker’s stated limits (some are not designed to stop a battery or corded saw’s chain, and no clothing guarantees protection), work gloves and sturdy boots with ankle support, plus a hard hat when you fell a tree or anything can fall from above. In an Irish survey of 62 domestic chainsaw accidents, only 3 percent of the injured users wore any protective gear (5).
Hold the saw with both hands, right hand on the rear handle and left hand on the front handle, thumbs and fingers wrapped around the handles, with your body to the left of the chain line and firm footing. Never cut at or above shoulder height, and never cut from a ladder or a roof. Some manuals set the limit lower, at chest height, so follow the stricter figure in yours.
In a 41-patient series of chainsaw leg injuries, the left foot was hurt most often, usually because it sat in the path of the saw (6), so I plant my feet before I pull the trigger.
Starting, Fuelling and Cords
Start a gas saw with the chain brake engaged, on the ground with the bar clear of anything or held firmly as the manual shows, never by drop-starting it, and at least 10 feet from where you fuelled it. Carbon monoxide from chainsaw exhaust reaches the operator’s breathing zone, and the level depends on the task and the working environment (7).
Use an outdoor-rated extension cord of the gauge your manual gives for its length, plug into GFCI-protected power, never use the saw in rain or wet conditions (GFCI protection does not make that safe), keep the cord away from the chain, and unplug it before any work on the chain. To clear, adjust, sharpen or carry a battery saw, release the trigger, engage the chain brake, switch it off and wait until the chain has stopped, then take the battery out and put on gloves; charge and store the battery as its manual says.
Trees, Storms and Power Lines
Felling is the most dangerous chainsaw job. Never work alone, keep everyone at least two tree lengths away, and plan and clear two escape routes angled back from the direction of fall before any felling cut. A large, leaning, dead or hung-up tree, or a trunk or limb under tension after a storm, is a job for a certified arborist. Husqvarna’s and Makita’s manuals ask for 2 1/2 tree lengths, so follow the larger distance in your manual.
Treat every downed power line, and anything touching it, as live: stay well away and call the utility. Before any work near a power line, contact the utility and leave that work to its qualified line-clearance crews; a general arborist is not automatically qualified for it.
I keep my chainsaw work to wood already on the ground, and I call a professional crew for a big tree. A family member stays within earshot when I cut, and I stop when my hands tingle or go numb and see a doctor if it persists. Wear ear protection even with a battery saw: a battery saw is quieter than a gas saw and still loud enough to need it.
My Overall Verdict
Three saws stand out, and the order depends on your wood and on how far you work from a socket. Pick the power type first: battery for mixed jobs around the property, gas for a long day with big wood, and corded when an outlet sits beside the work. My best chainsaw for homeowners list ranks nine saws with a chain brake for yard cleanup.
1. EGO Power+ CS1613 16 in Battery Chainsaw Kit Best Overall
Best for most homeowners: a 16 in battery saw with a tool-free knob, an automatic oiler and a 4.0Ah battery in the box.
2. Husqvarna 455 Rancher 20 in Gas Chainsaw Best Premium
Best for a big pile of wood: a 55.5 cc gas saw with a 20 in bar and two ways to stop the chain.
3. Husqvarna 120 Mark III 16 in Gas Chainsaw Best Value
Best for small wood on a tight budget: a 38 cc gas saw from a dealer brand with a documented brake.
The question I put to every saw was how little it asks of you before a cut and how clearly its manual tells you what to check. The EGO Power+ CS1613 16 in Battery Chainsaw Kit asks the least and says the most, and it is the best chainsaw I can recommend to a homeowner who cuts limbs and short logs on the ground.
Why EGO Power+ CS1613 16 in Battery Chainsaw Kit Might Be the Best Choice
The EGO Power+ CS1613 16 in Battery Chainsaw Kit is my top pick because it asks the least of a homeowner before the first cut. A tool-free knob, an automatic oiler and a battery with a fuel gauge make tensioning, oiling and charge checks easier.
The trade-off is information: EGO publishes no run time in minutes and no weight with the battery, so I plan by the work and keep a spare battery on the charger for a long afternoon. I go through the whole kit in my EGO CS1613 chainsaw review.
Here is what puts it at the top:
✓ Tensioning: a tool-free knob on the side cover, locked by the cover knob.
✓ Oiling: an automatic oiler with a 5 oz tank and an inspection window.
✓ Battery: a 4.0Ah battery with a fuel gauge and a charger in the box.
✓ Bar: a 16 in bar, the length the extension sources give for household work.
✓ Warranty: five years on the tool and three on the battery and charger, for household use.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the best chainsaw?
The best chainsaw for most yards is the EGO Power+ CS1613, a 16 in battery saw with a tool-free tensioning knob and an automatic oiler. If your wood pile is large, the Husqvarna 455 Rancher is my gas pick, and the Oregon CS1500 suits small wood beside an outlet, so choose by your wood and your outlet.
Who makes the best chainsaw?
The best chainsaw maker is EGO for battery, Husqvarna for gas and Oregon for corded, because each backs its saws with a clear manual, parts and warranty. Makita, Milwaukee, DeWalt, Greenworks and CRAFTSMAN suit buyers already on their battery platforms, and each lists a manual and warranty you can read before you buy.
What is a good chainsaw to buy?
A good chainsaw to buy has a bar about as long as the wood you cut, rarely more than 16 in for household jobs according to NC State Extension, a chain brake you test before each use and a power type you will keep up. Small yard work suits a battery or corded saw, and bigger wood suits gas.
Are electric chainsaws as powerful as gas?
Electric chainsaws are generally less powerful than gas ones: Alabama Extension says gas saws are more powerful, while battery saws are quieter, start at the push of a button and need less upkeep. Choose electric for small, occasional jobs near the house and gas for big wood and long days away from an outlet.
How do you maintain a chainsaw?
You maintain a chainsaw by keeping the chain sharp and tensioned and the bar oiled. Before touching the chain, stop the saw, wait for the chain to stop, then cool a gas engine and pull the spark plug cap, take a battery out, or unplug a corded saw by the plug, and put on gloves.
References
- Dąbrowski A. Reducing kickback of portable combustion chain saws and related injury risks: laboratory tests and deductions. Int J Occup Saf Ergon. 2012;18(3):399-417.
- Masci F, Spatari G, Bortolotti S, et al. Assessing the impact of work activities on the physiological load in a sample of loggers in Sicily (Italy). Int J Environ Res Public Health. 2022;19(13):7695.
- Alexander BM, Graydon PS, Pena M, Feng HA, Beamer BR. Hazardous exposures and engineering controls in the landscaping services industry. Journal of Occupational and Environmental Hygiene. 2025;22(3):189-202.
- Sritharen Y, Hernandez MC, Zielinski MD, Aho JM. Weekend woodsmen: overview and comparison of injury patterns associated with power saw and axe utilization in the United States. Am J Emerg Med. 2018;36(5):846-850.
- Doyle YG, Conroy RM. Prevention of timber felling and chainsaw-related accidents in the Republic of Ireland. Accid Anal Prev. 1989;21(6):529-534.
- Gemci Ç, Imerci A, Aydogan NH. Lower extremity injuries due to chainsaw during four-year periods. Cureus. 2023;15(8):e44058.
- Hooper B, Parker R, Todoroki C. Exploring chainsaw operator occupational exposure to carbon monoxide in forestry. J Occup Environ Hyg. 2017;14(1):D1-D12.
Safety Note: Read your saw’s manual first and get hands-on training before your first cut. A chainsaw can react faster than you can: if the upper part of the bar tip touches wood or another object, the bar can kick back up and toward you; wood pinching the top of the chain can push the saw straight back at you, and wood pinching the bottom can pull it forward. Keep the bar tip out of contact and watch for wood closing on the bar. A low-kickback chain and a chain brake reduce these risks but never remove them. Before each use, inspect the saw as your manual describes: test the chain brake, and check the throttle lockout, the stop switch, the chain catcher, the guards and the chain. On a gas saw the chain must not move at idle. If any check fails or a part is missing or damaged, do not use the saw until it is repaired, and never disable a safety device. Wear impact-rated safety glasses with side protection marked Z87+ (a mesh face screen adds to them but does not replace them), hearing protection, chainsaw chaps or chainsaw trousers, work gloves and sturdy boots with ankle support, and a hard hat when you fell a tree or when anything can fall from above. Use leg protection within its maker’s stated limits: some chaps are not designed to stop the chain of a battery or corded saw, and no clothing guarantees protection. Hold the saw with both hands, right hand on the rear handle and left hand on the front handle, thumbs and fingers wrapped around the handles, and keep your body to the left of the chain line with firm footing. Never cut one-handed with a rear-handle saw, never cut at or above shoulder height, and never cut from a ladder or a roof. Top-handle saws are made for trained tree workers: follow that saw’s manual. Keep children, bystanders and pets well away while you cut. Never work alone. Start a gas saw with the chain brake engaged, on the ground or held firmly as the manual shows, never by drop-starting it, and at least 10 feet from where you fuelled it. Refuel outdoors with the engine off and cool, with no smoking, flames or sparks nearby, wipe up spills, and use only the fuel mix and ethanol content your manual allows. Exhaust contains carbon monoxide, which can kill: never run a gas saw indoors or in a garage, shed or other enclosed space. Before you touch the chain, clear a jam, adjust the tension or sharpen: release the trigger, engage the chain brake, stop the engine or motor and wait until the chain has stopped. Then, on a gas saw, let the engine and muffler cool and pull the spark plug cap off; on a battery saw, take the battery out; on a corded saw, unplug it by the plug. Put on gloves before you touch the chain, and release the chain brake only when your manual’s procedure calls for it. To carry the saw, stop it, take out the battery or unplug it, keep the chain brake engaged and the bar pointing behind you, and fit the bar cover for transport. Use a corded saw only with an outdoor-rated extension cord of the gauge your manual gives, plugged into GFCI-protected power. Never use it in rain or wet conditions: GFCI protection does not make that safe. Keep the cord away from the chain. Use only the chains and bars your manual approves. Felling trees is the most dangerous chainsaw job. Before any felling cut, keep everyone at least two tree lengths away, and plan and clear two escape routes angled back from the direction of fall; when the tree starts to fall, follow your manual’s retreat steps (release the trigger, stop the saw and set it down as it describes) and move away along that route; never delay escape to cool, unplug or cover the saw. A large, leaning, dead or hung-up tree, a trunk or limb under tension after a storm, and any tree near a house or a road are jobs for a certified arborist. Power lines are a separate danger: treat every downed line, and anything touching it, as live, stay well away and call the utility; before any work near a power line, contact the utility and leave that work to its qualified line-clearance crews. Stop when you are tired, and take breaks if your hands tingle or go numb.