The best chainsaw for firewood is the one that cuts the logs you carry, and for me that means a 20 in gas saw for thick wood and a battery saw for shorter sessions. I run a 3.7-acre apricot and plum orchard, so my saw jobs are dead stems, big limbs and storm wood on the ground, and I put all seven of these saws through that work.
Below are seven rear-handle saws with their limits, led by my pick, the ECHO CS-590 Timber Wolf 20-Inch Gas Chainsaw. A chainsaw is the most dangerous tool I recommend, so every block says what its manual forbids.
Best Chainsaw for Firewood 2026: 7 Saws I Put to Work
These are the seven saws I recommend for cutting logs to length, ranked by how well each handles wood on the ground, with its limit stated. Three are gas and four are battery, and every one needs two hands and the full protective kit.
1. ECHO CS-590 Timber Wolf 20-Inch Gas Chainsaw Best Overall
A pile of logs rewards the saw with bar to spare and an engine that keeps the chain moving when you let it cut at its own pace, and the ECHO CS-590 is that saw on this page. Its 59.8 cc two-stroke pulls the 20 in bar in the box, and the manual approves bars from 16 to 27 in, so the same powerhead can follow your wood. I picked it first for the owner who bucks thick logs lying on the ground and accepts a measured fuel mix.
WHY I CHOSE THIS ✓
The CS-590 gets first place from me because it gives a log cutter the most room: a 20 in bar today, a list of approved bars if the wood changes, a decompression device and a brake that works by hand and on its own. It rewards the owner who keeps to the routine, and the routine is short enough to learn in one afternoon of practice cuts on a stand.
ECHO CS-590 Timber Wolf 20-Inch Gas Chainsaw Specs
Key Features:
- Approved bar range: the manual lists 16, 18, 20, 24 and 27 in bars, and a homeowner stays at 20 in or under.
- Decompression device and purge bulb: both sit in the manual’s start order.
- Two ways to stop the chain: a hand lever, and a brake that engages on kickback energy.
- Adjustable automatic oiler: per ECHO’s product page it runs only while the chain moves.
- Side-access chain adjuster: you turn it at the flank of the saw, then tighten the sprocket guard nuts to 20 to 23 N-m.
- Anti-vibration device and spiked bumper: the manual lists both as standard features.
- Optional Kick Guard: a bar-nose guard the manual recommends for beginners, homeowners and novices; it is not fitted when the saw ships.
On a dead plum limb as thick as my forearm, the CS-590 went through quicker and with less effort than my hand saw. It is far louder, so ear protection goes on before the first pull. The manual says pushing too hard slows the engine and makes cutting harder, so let the engine do the work. The 20 in is the bar in the box; the wood it cuts through in one pass is shorter, so I measure the widest log against the cutting length.
The 13.2 lb is the dry weight without bar and chain, so the saw in your hands with a 20 in bar, chain and full tanks is heavier. ECHO calls for a 50:1 mix, 89 octane bought within the last 30 days, up to 10 percent ethanol, and no E15 or E85. I mix only what the day needs, because old mix is the quickest way to a saw that will not start.
A spec sheet does not show the start order, so I rehearsed it before the first real pull. Brake lever forward, stop switch to RUN, decompression device pressed, choke out, pull to the first start sound, choke in, device pressed again, pull again, and when the engine starts squeeze and release the throttle at once to drop the fast-idle latch. Then the front hand guard comes back to unlock the brake. ECHO warns that revving with the brake locked causes severe brake damage. The limit is the engine: a two-stroke with a mix routine does not suit a user who wants no fuel handling.
Fit the optional Kick Guard before the first cut. ECHO recommends it especially for beginners, homeowners and novices, and says it can be used in a majority of cutting operations.
Start a gas saw with the chain brake engaged, on the ground with the bar clear of anything or held firmly as the manual shows, never by drop-starting it, and at least 10 feet from where you fuelled it. ECHO warns that a replacement chain or bar other than those it lists may cause severe kickback, so I fit only the combinations in the manual’s table.
ECHO says all chains require frequent adjustments, and sap and resin can corrode the bar, sprocket guard and sprocket area, which the manual wants cleaned after each use. Service goes through an authorized dealer, and ECHO says a certified two-stroke oil is needed to keep the engine warranty intact. The number of small checks around the saw is the price of that bar room.
Buy it if you buck thick logs on the ground, want one gas saw with bar room and will keep a strict fuel routine. Skip it if you want the lightest saw, the lowest price or no fuel handling. It is the wrong saw for felling plans: ECHO says nobody works in a tree without specific training, and a beginner should take a course before any cut.
FINAL VERDICT
Pick the CS-590 for logs on the ground when you want a 20 in bar, a decompression device and two ways to stop the chain. Fit the Kick Guard, learn the start order and take a training course before the first cut.
It is the gas saw I recommend for thick logs on the ground.
2. Husqvarna 455 Rancher 20-Inch Gas Chainsaw Best Premium
On the first frost of the season the Husqvarna 455 Rancher asks for one chore before it starts: the plug in the cylinder cover comes out, as the manual says at 0 C (32 F) or colder. That small chore comes with a saw built for forest work, a 55.5 cc engine rated at 3.5 hp pulling a 20 in bar, with a bar range the manual approves up to 24 in. It is my premium pick for the owner who bucks thick logs often and keeps up with upkeep.
WHY I CHOSE THIS ✓
I put the 455 in second place because it tells an owner what to do and gives something back for it: an inertia brake plus a hand brake, a decompression valve, damping between engine and handles and a bar range up to 24 in. With thick logs and long afternoons, it is the best Husqvarna chainsaw for firewood on this page.
Husqvarna 455 Rancher 20-Inch Gas Chainsaw Specs
Key Features:
- 20 in bar with a range to 24 in: the manual approves 15, 16, 18, 20 and 24 in bars.
- Decompression valve and air purge bulb: the manual’s start steps use both before the pull.
- Two ways to stop the chain: the hand guard by hand and the inertia release on kickback, each with its own test in the manual.
- Vibration damping system: three damping units sit between the handles and the engine.
- Fuel before oil: the saw is built so the fuel runs out before the chain oil, provided you use the right chain oil.
- Cold-weather parts: a plug for the cylinder cover at 0 C or colder and a winter cover for the starter housing at minus 5 C or colder.
- Published wear limits: the brake band must stay at 0.6 mm (0.024 in) or more, and a chain is done when a cutting tooth is under 4 mm (0.16 in).
Over a long afternoon of bucking, the fuel tank ran dry before the chain oil did, which is how Husqvarna builds the saw as long as you use proper chain oil. Thin oil runs out sooner, and below 0 C some chain oils thicken enough to damage the pump. The manual tells you to cut at full throttle and drop to idle after each cut, because running too long at full throttle without a load can damage the engine. Finish the cut, drop to idle, then reposition.
The 13.2 lb is the powerhead without bar and chain, so the saw you hold is heavier once the bar, chain and tanks are on. The fuel is a 50:1 mix, 2 1/2 US fl oz of oil per gallon, gasoline with no more than 10 percent ethanol and an octane not below 90 RON (87 AKI). Husqvarna says never mix fuel for more than a month.
The second job is the routine Husqvarna’s manual lists: turning the guide bar daily, replacing the chain when the longest part of a cutting tooth is under 4 mm, and setting the depth gauge after every third sharpening. The limit sits in the same manual: you must have experience to fell a tree, and a tree wider than twice the bar length takes special training, so for me a 20 in bar is a log-cutting bar and never a felling plan.
I put each log on a saw horse or runners, as the manual says, and check that the chain does not touch the ground as the cut finishes. That keeps the chain out of the dirt.
The manual is blunt about trapped and tensioned trees: it is very dangerous to remove a trapped tree, and in some situations the only safe procedure is a winch, not the saw. Never work in a tree unless you have received specific, professional training for such work.
Ownership is a weekly list. The cooling system, the air filter and the carburetor area get cleaned once a week, and the brake band, spark plug and fuel filter get checked once a month. Husqvarna’s warranty extension needs its own fuel or oil bought on the same receipt and registration within 30 days, and it excludes agricultural use, so an orchard owner should read it before counting on 5 years. The list is the price of the saw, and the manual does not shorten it.
Choose it when your logs are thick, the sessions are long and you will keep the weekly and monthly list. Skip it if you want the lightest saw, a tool-free tensioner or a quiet saw near the house, because it is a gas saw and ear protection stays on. A beginner who plans to fell trees should skip it as well, and start with a training course.
FINAL VERDICT
The 455 is the premium gas saw for an owner who cuts thick logs on the ground and treats upkeep as part of the job. Buy it for the 20 in bar and the two brake actions, and fit the protective kit before the first pull.
It is the premium gas saw for owners who keep a maintenance list.
3. Husqvarna 130 16-Inch Gas Chainsaw Best Value
For rounds that fit inside 13 to 15 in of usable bar, the Husqvarna 130 gives gas power and a complete manual at the lowest price tier on this page. Its 38 cc engine pulls a 16 in bar, and that short bar is the whole bargain: light to hold, cheap to run, limited in log size. I rank it third as the value pick, and the value holds for rounds inside that length.
WHY I CHOSE THIS ✓
My value pick is the 130, because it asks the least of your wallet and of your learning: no extra starting system, part numbers printed in the manual, and the same dealer network and parts system Husqvarna uses for its larger saws. It is the saw I recommend to a neighbor with small rounds and a tight budget, on one condition: a training course first.
Husqvarna 130 16-Inch Gas Chainsaw Specs
Key Features:
- 13 to 15 in of usable cutting length: the manual says the usable length is usually 1 in less than the nominal 16 in bar.
- Air purge bulb start: six pushes, choke out, then pull; the manual describes no decompression step to learn.
- Two ways to stop the chain: the hand guard by hand and the inertia release on kickback.
- Low-kickback chains listed: the manual names the H37 and S93G chains as low-kickback, and says the saw met ANSI B175.1-2021 with the listed bar and chain combinations.
- Part numbers in the manual: bar 578186656, chain S93G and a 5/32 in file are all listed, so replacements are easy to match.
- Vibration damping system: a damping system sits between the engine body and the handle unit.
- Automatic oil pump: a 0.26 L tank feeds the chain without a hand oiler.
The 130 does its best work on rounds I can measure against the 13 in end of its range before the first cut. Husqvarna gives the chain 55.8 ft/s at maximum engine power speed, and the manual wants full throttle in the cut and idle between cuts, because running at full throttle without a load for too long damages the engine. Past 15 in of wood the bar runs out, and the manual’s own felling rule, no trees wider than twice the bar length without special training, tells you to stop thinking about bigger work.
The 10.3 lb is the powerhead without bar, chain, fuel or oil, so the saw in my hands was heavier than the number. At minute five it felt light, and at minute thirty I was glad of the breaks the work needs anyway. Fuel is a 50:1 mix, 2 1/2 US fl oz of oil per gallon, gasoline with no more than 10 percent ethanol, and never mixed for more than a month at a time.
A second job came after a storm, when broken limbs lay flat on the track. I cut the ones that lay flat on the ground and left anything hung up or tangled to people with the training for it, because wood under tension is the most dangerous kind to cut. The 130 handled the flat limbs, and the manual warns of a high accident risk when you limb, so I took them one at a time with the chain brake set between cuts. The low-kickback chain and the brake reduce the risk of kickback, and none of it removes the risk.
On a hot afternoon the saw would not restart. Husqvarna says to put it in a cool place away from sun for at least 20 minutes, then press the purge bulb repeatedly for 10 to 15 seconds.
Hearing protection is not optional, because the manual gives 102 dB(A) at the operator’s ear. The 130 is also the weakest saw on this page for thick logs, and the 13 to 15 in limit is a hard one.
Living with the 130 means mixed fuel and chain care. Husqvarna’s manual asks for frequent tension checks on a new chain until it has run in, an oil check at three-quarter throttle with the bar about 8 in above a light surface, and a depth gauge setting after every third sharpening. Wood dust, resin and dirt on the brake and clutch drum reduce the brake’s function. The release step after starting needs a secure two-handed grip, because the chain will move at that moment.
Pick the 130 when your rounds fit its usable length, your budget is tight and you accept a gas routine of mixed fuel and regular chain checks. Skip it for thick logs, for anyone who wants no fuel handling, and for any felling plan: Husqvarna says never to work in a tree without specific professional training.
FINAL VERDICT
The 130 is the best value chainsaw for firewood when the rounds are small: it spends little and still stops the chain two ways. Measure the round against 13 in first, and if it is wider, it belongs to a bigger saw.
It is the budget gas saw I recommend for small rounds.
4. EGO POWER+ CS2005 20-Inch 56V Battery Chainsaw Kit Best 20-Inch Battery Chainsaw
A 20 in bar is rare on a battery saw, and it is why the EGO POWER+ CS2005 is the best battery chainsaw for firewood in this list: it is the only battery saw here that matches the bar of the gas saws on top. The 56V kit comes with a 6.0Ah pack and a charger, the pack EGO says the high speed mode needs.
WHY I CHOSE THIS ✓
I picked the CS2005 for the owner who wants a battery saw with a bar long enough for logs: no mixed fuel and no cord pulls. Check the pack before you buy, because EGO says smaller packs give up the high mode.
EGO POWER+ CS2005 20-Inch 56V Battery Chainsaw Kit Specs
Key Features:
- Three speed modes: ECO, medium and high; EGO says ECO gives better control and longer run per charge.
- 6.0Ah pack in the kit: with 2.5Ah or less only ECO is available, and below 6.0Ah the high mode is not reached.
- Hand paddle plus sensors: EGO says never to rely on the sensor brake instead of the standard brake.
- Display: battery level and a brake icon that flashes when the brake trips.
- Oil inspection window: refill when the oil is no longer visible.
The CS2005 is a bucking saw for logs on the ground, and its 20 in is a called length, so I count my widest log against the shorter cutting length. EGO says the kit makes up to 135 cuts on a 6×6 with the 6.0Ah pack, and Alabama Cooperative Extension recommends two batteries. On a dead plum tree I cut the stem and the main limbs into carry-size pieces.
The 8.6 lb in the manual is a stripped powerhead without battery, bar, chain and oil, so I found the saw heavy at arm’s length once the pack and bar were on. ECO earned its place on small pieces, where the lower chain speed gave me more control. My comparison, EGO CS2005 against the CS1613, goes through the two 56V kits side by side.
EGO lists a full chisel chain, and University of Georgia Extension calls a semi-chisel cutter a sound choice for firewood because it stays sharper in dirty wood. Keep the log off the ground either way.
The brake caught earlier than I expected when my wrist rolled onto the paddle, and the display icon showed it had tripped. Release the trigger, take the bar and chain out of the wood and restart.
It is not tool-free: the tension bolt turns with the socket wrench, and EGO says a new chain stretches. Tensioning with the wrench is the slow part of owning it.
Choose it for logs within a 20 in bar’s cutting length when you want battery starts and no fuel. Skip it for light pruning, a long day on one pack or tool-free tension. A beginner who plans to fell should skip it until after a training course.
FINAL VERDICT
The CS2005 fits an owner who wants a 20 in bar without a fuel can and will own the packs to feed it. Buy the 6.0Ah kit and keep the work to logs inside the saw’s cutting length.
It is the battery saw I recommend for logs on the ground.
5. Milwaukee M18 FUEL 2727-21HD 16-Inch Chainsaw Kit Best Big-Battery Chainsaw Kit
The Milwaukee M18 FUEL 2727-21HD ships with the biggest battery of any kit on this page, a 12.0Ah HD pack, and its manual prints the wood the 16 in bar can go through: a 15 in cutting capacity. That printed number is why it is my best cordless chainsaw for firewood where the rounds are thick.
WHY I CHOSE THIS ✓
For the M18 owner who already holds packs and wants one saw for thick rounds, I kept the 2727-21HD on this list. The largest pack in any kit here means the saw works from day one.
Milwaukee M18 FUEL 2727-21HD 16-Inch Chainsaw Kit Specs
Key Features:
- 15 in cutting capacity: the manual says wider wood needs advanced techniques and trained professionals.
- 12.0Ah HD pack in the kit: the largest battery in any kit here, and every M18 battery fits.
- Fixed-flow automatic oiler: no adjustment screw, a 200 mL tank, refilled after each full battery discharge.
- Dual-stud bar and chain retention: a maker feature, with a scrench stored on board.
- Battery protection: Milwaukee says REDLINK PLUS guards against overload, overheating and over-discharge.
The 15 in capacity let me size my cuts before I started: a dead plum stem went into carry-size pieces with the 16 in bar, and I never needed more bar than that. The manual’s bucking rules are plain: cut one log at a time, support small logs on a saw horse or another log, never steady a log with a leg or foot, and stand uphill on a slope.
Chain oil is not in the box, so buy it before the first cut. Milwaukee says to fill the tank after each full battery discharge, because an unoiled chain damages the bar and chain, and a new chain can stretch during the first two hours. I go through the kit in more detail in my M18 FUEL chainsaw review.
Before real work I run the manual’s oil check: with a full tank, hold the bar tip near a light-colored board and run the saw for about 30 seconds. A line of oil should appear, and if it does not, clean the bar and check the tip sprocket.
Practice first: the manual says to cut a few small logs before a big job. Felling, or cutting a log or limb wider than the saw’s cutting capacity, is for trained professionals.
The saw lay on its side overnight once and left a patch of oil on the shed floor, so I now empty the oil tank before storage, as the manual says. Chain oil and the sharpening file are extra purchases. In my comparison of Milwaukee against Makita chainsaw kits, I put the 2727-21HD beside the XCU04PT1.
Choose it if you cut rounds inside 15 in, already own M18 batteries or want a big pack in the box. Skip it for felling, for any cut at or above shoulder height, and for anyone who wants a published weight or tool-free tension.
FINAL VERDICT
The 2727-21HD is the cordless saw for thick rounds that fit its 15 in capacity and for owners who value a big pack. Buy it with chain oil in the cart and keep the cutting low and on the ground.
It is the cordless saw I size by its printed capacity.
6. Makita XCU04PT1 36V LXT 16-Inch Chainsaw Kit With 4 Batteries Best Four-Battery Chainsaw Kit
Four batteries in the box is the idea behind the Makita XCU04PT1: the saw runs on two 18V batteries at once, so one pair works while the other charges. For an owner who wants the best electric chainsaw for firewood without buying a second kit, that is the point. It adds a 16 in bar, tool-less chain tensioning and a three-year warranty.
WHY I CHOSE THIS ✓
My choice for longer sessions is the XCU04PT1, for owners who like gear that adjusts without a wrench. Four batteries turn a charging chore into a swap.
Makita XCU04PT1 36V LXT 16-Inch Chainsaw Kit With 4 Batteries Specs
Key Features:
- Four 5.0Ah batteries and a dual port charger: two work in the saw while two charge.
- Tool-less tensioning: open the lever and turn the dial, with no wrench for routine tension.
- Run-down brake: after the trigger is released the chain must stop within one second.
- Adjustable oiler: a screw sets the feed, and a window shows the 200 mL tank level.
- Protection system: overload, overheating and over-discharge stop the saw.
With one pair in the saw and the other on the charger in the tool shed, a long afternoon of hedgerow stems did not stop for charging. The saw needs two batteries at once, so if one is flat it will not run. The 16 in bar cuts 14-3/4 in, so I count the log against 14-3/4 in, not against the number on the box. My comparison, WORX WG385 vs Makita XCU04PT1, covers this saw next to the WORX WG385.
Makita’s tool-less tensioning is a lever and a dial. The manual warns that a chain that is too loose can jump off the bar, and one that is too tight wears the bar and can break the dial.
I put round pieces on a saw horse and secure them against rotation, as the manual asks of a first-time user. Never steady the workpiece with a foot, and keep the chain off the ground.
Makita’s manual says burrowing, felling and limbing may only be performed by trained persons.
Makita says to charge between 10 and 40 C and not to store the tool and batteries where it reaches 50 C. The 3/8 in low profile chain is lighter duty than a full-pitch gas saw. Keeping all four batteries charged and ready is the chore that comes with the kit.
Pick it if you cut medium logs inside its 14-3/4 in cutting length, want tool-less tension and like to swap battery pairs. Skip it if you need a bar over 16 in, a published weight with the kit’s batteries or felling capacity.
FINAL VERDICT
The XCU04PT1 suits an owner who cuts in longer sessions and values a wrench-free chain and a charged spare pair. Buy it for logs inside its 14-3/4 in cutting length, and leave felling and limbing to trained hands.
It is the battery saw with a charged spare pair.
7. DeWalt DCCS672X1 60V 18-Inch Brushless Chainsaw Kit Best Mid-Size Chainsaw for Firewood
An 18 in bar sits between the 16 and 20 in saws on this page, and the best size chainsaw for firewood in many yards lands in that 16 to 20 in range. This DeWalt DCCS672X1 runs on DeWalt’s 60V MAX system, and the manual sets the working limit at logs up to 16 in.
WHY I CHOSE THIS ✓
I added the DCCS672X1 for the owner whose logs run past 14 in but stay inside 16, and who wants a 60V system. The only 18 in bar of the seven gives it reach that the 16 in saws lack.
DeWalt DCCS672X1 60V 18-Inch Brushless Chainsaw Kit Specs
Key Features:
- 18 in bar on 60V: the only 18 in bar of the seven, with a manual limit of logs up to 16 in.
- Overload cut-off: if too much force is applied the saw turns off, and you release the trigger before it restarts.
- Oil level indicator: refill when less than a quarter full.
- Onboard wrench: DeWalt calls it quick chain adjustment, and the nuts tighten to 6 ft. lbs.
- Vegetable oil advice: the manual recommends a vegetable-based bar oil when pruning trees, because mineral oil may harm them.
I work inside the 16 in log limit, not the 18 in on the bar. The saw switched itself off when I leaned on it, and I released the trigger and restarted with less pressure. DeWalt asks for only light pressure and a cut that starts with the chain at full speed.
When the pile turned to fine dust instead of chips, I stopped rather than push, because a loose or dull chain can raise the chance of kickback, as the manual says, and a dull chain goes to sharpening by the manual’s method. DeWalt asks for frequent tension checks during the first two hours.
I use a vegetable-based bar oil near the trees, as the manual recommends, and cut on a stand or a hard pad away from the drip lines. Oil on the soil adds up over a root zone.
The manual forbids plunge and bore cuts, and says not to cut vines or small under-brush. Never cut at or above shoulder height, and never cut from a ladder or a roof; DeWalt’s operating text sets the limit lower, at chest height.
Check the box contents for the battery size before you buy, and never use the saw under wet conditions. The electronic protection turns the saw off on overload, overheating and deep discharge. Charge between 40 F and 104 F, and keep the battery out of places that reach 104 F. The wrench has to be to hand in the field.
Choose it for logs inside 16 in when you want an 18 in bar and a 60V platform. Skip it for brush and saplings, for wet weather, for anyone who wants a published weight, and for first-time users, since the manual calls it a professional power tool.
FINAL VERDICT
The DCCS672X1 is the mid-size battery saw for logs up to 16 in on the ground. Buy it for the 18 in reach, work inside the manual’s limit and keep felling to trained hands.
It is the mid-size battery saw for 16 in logs.
How to Choose the Best Chainsaw for Firewood
Firewood work is bucking: cutting logs that already lie on the ground into lengths. Choose by the widest log you cut, how long you cut at a stretch, how the maker counts weight and which safety parts the manual describes. For jobs beyond firewood, my ranking of best overall chainsaws spans battery, gas and corded saws.
Bar Length and the Log You Cut
Bar length sets how much wood fits in one pass. Alabama Cooperative Extension puts light work at 8 to 15 in, thick limbs and trunks at 16 to 20 in, and calls bars over 20 in professional-grade. Oregon State’s guide says the bar should be as long as the diameter of the largest tree you cut, and University of Georgia Extension says slightly longer. I pick the best size chainsaw for firewood by my widest log.
| Bar length | Typical work |
|---|---|
| 8 to 15 in | Light duty: small limbs and small trees |
| 16 to 20 in | Frequent cutting of thick limbs and trunks |
| Over 20 in | Professional-grade, not recommended for homeowners |
The length on the box is longer than the wood the saw cuts through. One maker lists a usable cutting length of 13 to 15 in on a 16 in bar, and another lists 14-3/4 in, so count your widest log against the cutting length.
Gas or Battery for a Long Cutting Day
Alabama Cooperative Extension says gas saws are more powerful, while battery saws are quieter, start at the push of a button and need less upkeep, and it recommends two batteries for a battery saw. NC State Extension adds that battery saws are not designed for prolonged use or for cutting large material. NIOSH sampling of landscaping workers found significantly more noise and carbon monoxide exposure with fuel-powered leaf blowers, string trimmers and chainsaws, as a group, than with battery versions (1). I rank nine cordless saws by bar, brake and battery kit in my roundup of cordless battery chainsaws.
- Total cutting time: add up the minutes of cutting across the whole day, not one job.
- Spare batteries: a battery saw works through the day only as long as a charged pack is in the bag.
- Fuel in reach: a gas saw keeps going between refuelling stops, which follow the refuelling order in the Shutdown Orders box.
For a long afternoon of thick logs, the best gas chainsaw for firewood is the saw I reach for. Near the house, for a few short sessions, a battery saw is what I pick up. I rank five rear-handle saws for yard, orchard and storm work in my roundup of rear-handle gas chainsaws.
Support the Log and Keep the Chain Clean When Bucking
Choosing the best chainsaw for bucking firewood starts with how the log lies, because support decides whether the bar pinches. Extension guides and saw manuals agree on three cases, and the aim in each is to keep the cut open.
| Log support | Cut order |
|---|---|
| Supported along its length | Cut from the top (overbuck) |
| Supported on one end | Cut about one third of the diameter from the underside, then finish from the top |
| Supported on both ends | Cut about one third of the diameter from the top, then finish from the underside |
Stand uphill, keep firm footing and a way out if the log rolls, and never steady a log with a leg or foot. Keep the chain out of dirt and stones, because grit dulls it fast. University of Georgia Extension calls a semi-chisel cutter a sound choice for firewood because it stays sharper in dirty wood, and you still fit only the chain your manual approves.
Pro Tip
Practice your first cuts on a saw horse or cradle, secure round pieces against rotation and keep the chain off the ground.
Weight and How the Maker Counts It
Makers count weight on different bases, so two numbers can look comparable and mean different things. A study of 40 loggers found felling was the most demanding task, workers underestimated their own physical load, and heart rate rose as the chainsaw got heavier (2). I check what a weight includes before I trust it, the way I check what a nozzle chart counts.
- Powerhead without bar and chain: the lightest figure, and the one makers often print.
- Dry, with tanks empty: adds no liquids, and may still leave out the bar and chain.
- With battery, bar and chain: the weight you hold, and one several makers do not print for the kit.
Never set a powerhead weight against a weight with a different basis. A saw that feels light at minute five feels heavy at minute thirty, so I judge weight at arm’s length by the length of the session. My roundup of lightweight chainsaws ranks seven compact saws for limbs and small logs.
Chain Brake, Kickback and the Pre-Use Check
If the upper part of the bar tip touches wood or another object, the bar can kick back up and toward you (rotational kickback). Wood pinching the chain on the top of the bar pushes the saw straight back at you (pushback), and wood pinching the bottom pulls it forward, away from you (pull-in). A low-kickback chain, a chain brake and a correct grip reduce these risks; none removes them. In laboratory tests on gas saws, proper chain tension, anti-kickback chain links, sliding-end guide bars and a quick chain brake all influenced kickback (3).
- Chain brake: a hand lever, an inertia release or both; test it by the exact manual’s method, because makers differ.
- Throttle trigger lockout and stop switch: each must work before every start.
- Chain catcher and guards: they stay on the saw.
Before Every Use
Before each use, inspect the saw as its manual describes: test the chain brake by the manual’s method, and check the throttle trigger lockout, the stop switch, the chain catcher, the guards and the chain’s sharpness, tension and condition; on a gas saw the chain must not move at idle. If any check fails, do not use the saw until it is repaired, and never disable a safety device.
I treat a saw that fails one check as a saw I do not use until it is fixed.
Fuel, Batteries and Starting
The three gas saws here are two-strokes, so fuel and oil go into one tank in a ratio set by that saw’s manual. The mix, the octane and the ethanol limit differ by maker, so read the manual of the saw you buy; the table gives one example for each of two makers.
| Maker | Mix | Fuel limits |
|---|---|---|
| Husqvarna | 50:1, 2 1/2 US fl oz of oil per gallon | Up to 10 percent ethanol, 90 RON or 87 AKI, mix no older than a month |
| ECHO | 50:1, 2.6 fl oz per gallon | 89 octane bought within 30 days, up to 10 percent ethanol, no E15 or E85 |
Start a gas saw with the chain brake engaged, on the ground with the bar clear of anything or held firmly as the manual shows, never by drop-starting it, and at least 10 feet from where you fuelled it. I mix fuel in a measured bottle, and only as much as a session needs.
Battery rules differ as well. One maker’s saw needs two batteries in it at once, another says its high speed mode needs a 6.0Ah pack or larger, and one says to charge between 10 and 40 C. Battery work follows the maintenance and carrying orders in the Shutdown Orders box, and you charge and store the battery as the manual says.
Price Tier and Warranty
Price decides how much bar and engine you get. A budget saw is a fair choice for small rounds, and a premium kit buys a bigger battery or a longer bar, so match the tier to your widest log and the hours you cut. The best chainsaw for firewood cutting on a tight budget is the saw whose limits fit that log. Then read the warranty as each maker states it. Nine chain-brake saws for yard cleanup are ranked in my roundup of chainsaws for homeowners.
| Maker | Consumer warranty |
|---|---|
| ECHO | 5 years consumer and 1 year commercial on its product page; service through an authorized dealer |
| Husqvarna | Standard 2 years for consumer use, extendable to 3 or 5 with its fuel or oil purchase and registration within 30 days; the program excludes agricultural and commercial use |
| EGO | 5-year limited on the tool, 3-year limited on battery and charger, for household use |
| Milwaukee | 3-year limited on the tool; battery packs have a separate warranty |
| Makita | 3 years on tool, battery and charger |
| DeWalt | 3-year limited, 1 year free service and a 90-day satisfaction guarantee |
I read the exclusions before the length, because a long warranty that excludes farm work is no help on an orchard.
Safety Kit, Training and the Wood You Leave Alone
Training comes first. Read the manual and take a hands-on course, and start on small, simple cuts of wood lying on the ground. Most power saw and axe injuries in a US emergency department series happened at home, and about half involved the fingers and hand (4). The best homeowner chainsaw for firewood is the one you use with the full protective kit every time.
Hold the saw with both hands, right hand on the rear handle and left hand on the front handle, thumbs and fingers wrapped around the handles, with your body to the left of the chain line and firm footing. In an Irish survey of 62 domestic chainsaw accidents, only 3 percent of injured users wore any protective gear (5), and in a 41-patient series of leg injuries the left foot was hurt most often, usually from the foot sitting in the path of the saw (6).
Protective Kit
Wear impact-rated safety glasses with side protection marked Z87+ (a mesh face screen adds to them but never replaces them), hearing protection, chainsaw chaps or chainsaw trousers used within their maker’s stated limits (some are not designed to stop a battery or corded saw’s chain, and no clothing guarantees protection), work gloves and sturdy boots with ankle support, plus a hard hat when you fell a tree or anything can fall from above. Husqvarna’s manuals call for gloves and boots with saw protection, and boots with a steel toe cap and a non-slip sole.
Never cut at or above shoulder height, and never cut from a ladder or a roof.
Bucking wood that already lies on the ground is the job this page is about. Felling is the most dangerous chainsaw job. Never work alone, keep everyone at least two tree lengths away, and plan and clear two escape routes angled back from the direction of fall before any felling cut. Husqvarna and Makita ask for 2 1/2 tree lengths, so use that distance with those saws. A large, leaning, dead or hung-up tree, or a trunk or limb under tension after a storm, is a job for a certified arborist.
Treat every downed power line, and anything touching it, as live: stay well away and call the utility. Before any work near a power line, contact the utility and leave that work to its qualified line-clearance crews; a general arborist is not automatically qualified for it.
Take breaks: groundskeepers using handheld blowers and chainsaws have hand-arm vibration doses far above office workers (7), and a tired operator makes mistakes. Stop when your hands tingle or go numb, and see a doctor if it persists.
Shutdown Orders
Stopping (every saw, first step of everything below): release the trigger, engage the chain brake (on a battery or corded saw, if it has a brake lever), switch the engine or motor off and wait until the chain has stopped. Maintenance (touching the chain, clearing a jam, adjusting tension, sharpening, changing the bar or chain): stop as above, then on a gas saw let the engine and muffler cool and pull the spark plug cap off; on a battery saw take the battery out; on a corded saw pull the plug from the outlet by the plug, not the cord. Put on gloves before touching the chain. Release the chain brake only when the exact manual’s procedure requires it (for example to remove the clutch cover or check that the chain moves freely), and never force a locked chain or cover. Refuelling a gas saw: stop as above, let the engine cool, refuel outdoors with no smoking, open flame or sparks nearby, wipe spills, move at least 10 feet away before starting. Carrying and transport: stop as above (battery out, or unplugged), chain brake engaged, bar pointing behind you, bar cover on for transport. Retreat when a tree falls: in the normal felling sequence, follow the exact manual (for example the EGO manual: withdraw the saw, stop the motor, put the saw down, then retreat along the escape route); release the trigger as you move, never retreat with the chain running. In an immediate emergency, get clear at once: never delay escape to cool the engine, unplug, remove a battery or fit a bar cover. The escape route is cleared before the cut.
I limit my chainsaw work on my own land to logs lying on the ground and leave the standing dead tree and the hung limb to people with the training for them.
My Overall Verdict
Seven saws made this list, and the ECHO CS-590 leads it as my best all around chainsaw for firewood, because logs on the ground reward a 20 in bar and a saw with room to grow. Gas holds the top three places, since a long afternoon of bucking is gas work, and the four battery saws fit shorter sessions near the house. In my CS-590 review, I go through its bar, fuel routine and chain care.
1. ECHO CS-590 Timber Wolf 20-Inch Gas Chainsaw Best Overall
For anyone who bucks thick logs and wants a 20 in bar, a decompression device and a strict fuel routine.
2. Husqvarna 455 Rancher 20-Inch Gas Chainsaw Best Premium
For an owner who cuts thick logs often and keeps up the weekly and monthly upkeep list.
3. Husqvarna 130 16-Inch Gas Chainsaw Best Value
For small rounds inside 13 to 15 in on a tight budget.
If your logs are thick and the afternoon is long, buy the ECHO and keep to the fuel routine. The Husqvarna 130 is the budget purchase for small rounds, and the battery saws from fourth place on remove the fuel can. The ECHO CS-590 is the best chainsaw for firewood I can recommend to an owner who cuts logs on the ground.
Why ECHO CS-590 Timber Wolf 20-Inch Gas Chainsaw Might Be the Best Choice
I reach for the CS-590 when the log is thick, because the 20 in bar and the 59.8 cc engine give me room, and the manual lists bars from 16 to 27 in if my wood changes.
The trade is the routine. ECHO calls for a 50:1 mix, fresh fuel and frequent chain checks, and its manual says a certified two-stroke oil keeps the engine warranty intact.
Here is what the CS-590 gives you:
✓ 20 in bar in the box, with 16, 18, 24 and 27 in bars approved.
✓ Decompression device and purge bulb in a fixed start order.
✓ Two ways to stop the chain: a hand lever and a kickback-activated brake.
✓ Adjustable automatic oiler with a 300 mL tank.
✓ Optional Kick Guard that ECHO recommends for beginners, homeowners and novices.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the best chainsaw for cutting firewood?
The best chainsaw for cutting firewood on this list is the ECHO CS-590, a 59.8 cc gas saw with a 20 in bar and a decompression device. It suits logs lying on the ground, and every saw here still needs two hands, the full protective kit and chainsaw training before the first cut.
What type of saw is most efficient for cutting firewood?
The most efficient type of saw for cutting firewood depends on the day: gas for long sessions on thick logs, and a battery saw for shorter sessions near the house when you own a spare battery. For cutting at ground level, Husqvarna’s top-handle manual recommends a regular rear-handle saw, so all seven saws here are rear-handle.
What type of chainsaw chain is best for cutting firewood?
The best type of chainsaw chain for cutting firewood is a semi-chisel chain, which University of Georgia Extension says stays sharper longer in dirty wood. Fit only the chain and bar your saw’s manual approves, keep a low-kickback chain on a homeowner saw, and keep logs off the ground so the chain stays clean.
Can a chainsaw split firewood?
A chainsaw cannot split firewood, because it is built for felling, limbing and bucking, which is how Husqvarna’s manual describes its saw. Cut rounds to length on a supported log and split them with a tool made for splitting, and take a training course and wear the full protective kit before any chainsaw cut.
What is the best saw for cutting wood logs?
The best saw for cutting wood logs on this list is the ECHO CS-590 for gas power and the EGO CS2005 for a 20 in battery saw. Either one needs a supported log, two hands and the full protective kit, and a beginner should take a training course before using a chainsaw.
References
- Alexander BM, Graydon PS, Pena M, Feng HA, Beamer BR. Hazardous exposures and engineering controls in the landscaping services industry. Journal of Occupational and Environmental Hygiene. 2025;22(3):189-202.
- Masci F, Spatari G, Bortolotti S, et al. Assessing the impact of work activities on the physiological load in a sample of loggers in Sicily (Italy). Int J Environ Res Public Health. 2022;19(13):7695.
- Dąbrowski A. Reducing kickback of portable combustion chain saws and related injury risks: laboratory tests and deductions. Int J Occup Saf Ergon. 2012;18(3):399-417.
- Sritharen Y, Hernandez MC, Zielinski MD, Aho JM. Weekend woodsmen: overview and comparison of injury patterns associated with power saw and axe utilization in the United States. Am J Emerg Med. 2018;36(5):846-850.
- Doyle YG, Conroy RM. Prevention of timber felling and chainsaw-related accidents in the Republic of Ireland. Accid Anal Prev. 1989;21(6):529-534.
- Gemci Ç, Imerci A, Aydogan NH. Lower extremity injuries due to chainsaw during four-year periods. Cureus. 2023;15(8):e44058.
- Chen N, Yang S, Oh J. Evaluation of hand-arm vibration (HAV) exposure among groundskeepers in the southeastern United States. Annals of Work Exposures and Health. 2025;69(1):81-95.
Safety Note: Read your saw’s manual first and get hands-on training before your first cut. A chainsaw can react faster than you can: if the upper part of the bar tip touches wood or another object, the bar can kick back up and toward you; wood pinching the top of the chain can push the saw straight back at you, and wood pinching the bottom can pull it forward. Keep the bar tip out of contact and watch for wood closing on the bar. A low-kickback chain and a chain brake reduce these risks but never remove them. Before each use, inspect the saw as your manual describes: test the chain brake, and check the throttle lockout, the stop switch, the chain catcher, the guards and the chain. On a gas saw the chain must not move at idle. If any check fails or a part is missing or damaged, do not use the saw until it is repaired, and never disable a safety device. Wear impact-rated safety glasses with side protection marked Z87+ (a mesh face screen adds to them but does not replace them), hearing protection, chainsaw chaps or chainsaw trousers, work gloves and sturdy boots with ankle support, and a hard hat when you fell a tree or when anything can fall from above. Use leg protection within its maker’s stated limits: some chaps are not designed to stop the chain of a battery or corded saw, and no clothing guarantees protection. Hold the saw with both hands, right hand on the rear handle and left hand on the front handle, thumbs and fingers wrapped around the handles, and keep your body to the left of the chain line with firm footing. Never cut one-handed with a rear-handle saw, never cut at or above shoulder height, and never cut from a ladder or a roof. Top-handle saws are made for trained tree workers: follow that saw’s manual. Keep children, bystanders and pets well away while you cut. Never work alone. Start a gas saw with the chain brake engaged, on the ground or held firmly as the manual shows, never by drop-starting it, and at least 10 feet from where you fuelled it. Refuel outdoors with the engine off and cool, with no smoking, flames or sparks nearby, wipe up spills, and use only the fuel mix and ethanol content your manual allows. Exhaust contains carbon monoxide, which can kill: never run a gas saw indoors or in a garage, shed or other enclosed space. Before you touch the chain, clear a jam, adjust the tension or sharpen: release the trigger, engage the chain brake, stop the engine or motor and wait until the chain has stopped. Then, on a gas saw, let the engine and muffler cool and pull the spark plug cap off; on a battery saw, take the battery out; on a corded saw, unplug it by the plug. Put on gloves before you touch the chain, and release the chain brake only when your manual’s procedure calls for it. To carry the saw, stop it, take out the battery or unplug it, keep the chain brake engaged and the bar pointing behind you, and fit the bar cover for transport. Use a corded saw only with an outdoor-rated extension cord of the gauge your manual gives, plugged into GFCI-protected power. Never use it in rain or wet conditions: GFCI protection does not make that safe. Keep the cord away from the chain. Use only the chains and bars your manual approves. Felling trees is the most dangerous chainsaw job. Before any felling cut, keep everyone at least two tree lengths away, and plan and clear two escape routes angled back from the direction of fall; when the tree starts to fall, follow your manual’s retreat steps (release the trigger, stop the saw and set it down as it describes) and move away along that route; never delay escape to cool, unplug or cover the saw. A large, leaning, dead or hung-up tree, a trunk or limb under tension after a storm, and any tree near a house or a road are jobs for a certified arborist. Power lines are a separate danger: treat every downed line, and anything touching it, as live, stay well away and call the utility; before any work near a power line, contact the utility and leave that work to its qualified line-clearance crews. Stop when you are tired, and take breaks if your hands tingle or go numb.